“Dale
valor a las cosas, no por lo que valen, sino por lo que
significan.” Gabriel García Márquez *
Puerto
Vallarta is set like a gemstone in the center of the scythe-shaped Bahia de
Banderas between the sea and the majestic Sierra Madre Mountains. The 26-mile
long Bahia de Banderas, Banderas Bay, is the largest bay in Mexico and the
sheer beauty is breathtaking. P.V., as it is referred to by visitors and
residents alike, is internationally famous for its beautiful sunsets, beaches,
geographical diversity, flora, fauna, cuisine, culture and world-class
hospitality. The weather is close to perfect and even the rainy season,
November through March, does not put a damper on living “la vida loco”.
visitmexico.com
Indigenous
tribes lived in the region for centuries, sustaining themselves by fishing and
farming, prior to first contact with Europeans in 1524 when Francisco Cortes
encountered 18,000 indians. They were carrying feathered banners and the
Spainards named the area the Valle de Las Banderas or the Valley of the Flags.
The next fully documented visitor, Don Pedro de Alvarado, 17-years later is
credited with “discovering” the site that is now Puerto Vallarta. For more than
300-years P.V. was a small fishing village largely overlooked except by the
occasional ship seeking a port in a storm, a resupplying point or pirate
vessels waiting to launch an attack on unsuspecting Spanish treasure ships. The
bay during those years was referred to as Humpbck Bay because of the large
number of whales in the waters.
In
1851 Guadalupe Sanchez began to grow crops on land he purchased to ship to the
silver mines in the surrounding mountains. His business flourished as the mines
began to use it as a mining supply transfer point. Originally referred to as
Puerto Las Peñas, as the settlement grew it was renamed Ignacio Vallarta to
honor a former governor. In 1918 it was officially named Puerto Vallarta and
was designated a Mexican city. The Rosita Hotel was the first hotel in the
area. It opened in 1948 and provided ample accommodations for the few visitors
who came.
A
stunning series of events took place in Puerto Vallerta in the 1960s that would
catapult the city onto the international tourism stage. The tale begins with
the meeting of director John Huston and P.V. architect Guillermo Wulff. Huston
was scouting locations for his latest movie, The Night of the Iguana and Wulff proposed
that he consider Mismaloya, a small fishing village just south of the city.
Mismaloya’s beach is located in a cove and behind the village rises the jungle.
A set was erected and filming, with Richard Burton, began in 1963.
Richard
Burton was in the throes of a love affair with Elizabeth Taylor, she joined him
there and Burton and Taylor purchased two houses across the street from one
another. Burton had a bridge constructed, Lover’s Arch, between the two so that
he would not have to cross the street. Soon movie stars, intellectuals and
paparazzi began arriving and with the movie opening in 1964 a spotlight was
turned on Puerto Vallarta as a tourist destination that has never dimmed.
Huston
established a home on leased land in a Chacala Indian community in Las Caletas
and it is there that he wrote his autobiography. The island can be visited but
only on a guided tour. The movie set is closed and Casa Kimberley, the Taylor
home, is being renovated into an upscale hotel. Views of the house and the bridge
can be obtained from the street.
One
of the most incredible aspects of visiting Puerto Vallarta is the fact that
Mexican culture envelopes you. No areas are so tourist filled that you do not
have the opportunity to experience the city with and in the same ways the
residents do.
There
are not a large number of museums in the city but Museo Arqueológico del Cuale,
the Archeological Museum, provides an overview of the cultural history. The
museum opened in 1978 and underwent a renovation in 2005. The permanent
collection was donated from other Mexican museums and contains artifacts dating
from the Precolumbian Era circa 5000 B.C. and continues through the Spanish
conquest. Gallery highlights of the chronological exhibits include artworks and
pre-Hispanic shaft tombs. Interpretive information is available in English.
Strolling
the streets of the downtown is an important part of experiencing the city. The
cobblestone streets are a pathway to the finest restaurants and entertainment.
The most famous of these routes is a walk along El Malecón. This walk should be
taken during both daylight and dusk as the experiences are totally different.
Malecón extends from the Hotel Rosita to Los Muertos Beach, a 1-mile, 12-block
pedestrian zone bordered by a seawall. Fidencio Benitez, a native of the
indigenous Huichol, decorated the patterned pavement with designs. Bronze
sculptures line the walkway and are perfect places to take photographs. The
most iconic and most photographed is Rafael Zamarripa’s “El Caballito de Mar,”
“The Boy on the Seahorse”. A lad with a cowboy sombrero rides a
seahorse situated against the sea backdrop. The seahorse represents the city’s
durable links with the sea trades, the sombrero signifies Mexican history and
culture and the welcoming smile on the boy’s face visually depicts the warm
welcome the city extends to all visitors. The statue was originally created in
1960 and is approximately 9’ in height. Guided ArtWalk tours are offered that
include nine art galleries as well as guided sculpture tours.
vallartaartwalk.com
Art
lovers must pay homage to Manuel Lepe, one of Mexico’s most famous artists, by
visiting El Palacio Municipal, Old City Hall. His mural is displayed there.
Lepe was born in Puerto Vallarta and had no formal training. His works are so
colorful and exuberant that UNICEF has used his designs.
Performances
of Los Voladores de Papantla, the flyers of Papantla, are regularly scheduled
on the promenade. Five elaborately costumed men ascend a 98’ pole. Four of the
men plunge from the pole, tethered by one foot, and spin around the pole 13
times before alighting on the ground. When multiplied by 4 the total number of
spins equals the Aztec sacred number 52. The fifth man remains balanced atop
the pole as he plays music to accompany the performance.
Virgin
de Guadalupe Church was completed in 1951 and dedicated to the patron saint of
both the city and Mexico. The church is a mix of styles with the central
portion being neo-classical with renaissance towers. The church is located on
the site of an earlier chapel and the larger edifice was begun in October of
1912. After several interruptions work on the dome began in 1940. A tour of the
interior showcases a 1945 venerated oil painting of the Virgin by Ignacio
Rameriz.
The
church’s most outstanding architectural feature is a brick bell tower topped by
a crown. The crown was originally gilt and designed after one worn by Empress
Carlotta of Mexico. The original was destroyed by an earthquake in 1995 and was
temporarily replaced with one made of fiberglass. In 2009 a new 31’ by 48’
crown, with a glass dome and a cross, created by Carlos Terres, was placed atop
the church. The design incorporates symbols, 8 angels bear the crown, 24
gemstone boxes stand for the 24 hours in a day and 5 large palms signify the 5
most important events in the history of the city. The first 12 days of December
the church becomes the pivotal site in Puerto Vallarta’s most important
faith-based event, the Fiestas de la Virgin Guadalupe. Year round Virgin de
Guadalupe Church is a major pilgrimage site.
Playa
Los Muertos, Deadman’s Beach, is the city’s most popular beach. There are
several stories about the naming of the area but the one that is supported by
oral testimony and archeological evidence points to the beach having been a
sacred burial site for local natives. Remnants of gravesites, pottery shards
and bones in ceramic vessels have been recovered.
CNN designated Los
Muertos Pier one of the most beautiful worldwide. The pier, designed by José de
Jesús Torres Vega, opened in 2013 in the heart of most romantic portion of the
beach. The $2.4-million pier includes a pedestrian zone, seating, docking
facilities and an evening light show. This is a perfect place to watch the
sunset. Adjacent to the pier are restaurants and shops ideal for browsing after
dark.
Puerto
Vallarta offers a wide-range of lodgings, from apartments to luxurious villas,
from self-catering to all-inclusives. The city has won awards as the
friendliest city in the world and that extends to their extensive and uniformly
high quality hospitality network. That being said, I suggest that visitors
choose accommodations based on location, service, environmental responsibility
and service to the community. The adults-only Villa Premire Hotel & Spa
exceeded my expectations.
The
Villa Premire has been honored with numerous awards for a commitment to
personalized service that begins the moment you step onto the property. You are
greeted with a cold towel, a refreshing drink and a 5-minute massage in a
private area. Pillow and accommodation fragrance menus are presented at
check-in and guests select the types of pillows and which of seven aromas you
want your room to have. Each of the 83 rooms and suites offer boutique bath
products and designer linens. On-site restaurants feature traditional cuisine
through room, pool and table service.
Villa
Premire is a primary supporter of La Orquesta Escuela de Puerto Vallarta
(OEPV), the School Orchestra of Puerto Vallarta. This community program is
designed to teach music with an additional emphasis on developing leaders,
academics, self-discipline, communication and collaboration skills,
transcending class, race and social barriers. There are three skill levels from
beginner to advanced incorporating ages 8 to 22. All students receive
scholarships from 10% to 100%. Additional information on performances and
donations is available online. facebook.com/oepuertovallarta
The
Jazz Foundation is a new addition to P.V.’s nightlife scene and the
city’s first jazz club. Opened in June in Downtown, the club is designed to
replicate a traditional jazz club with specialty drinks and Creole
cuisine. As an all-inclusive jazz forum the facility includes a library and
features special events and programming. jazzpv.com
Among
Puerto Vallarta’s numerous claims to fame is the designation , “Gourmet Capital
of the Mexican Pacific.” Noted for its traditional cuisine UNESCO has
recognized the variety and quality of the traditional cuisine of inestimable
value as an intangible cultural heritage and there are more than 300
restaurants from which to choose. Each November the 10-day Festival Gourmet
International Vallarta is held. festivalgourmet.com
La
Palapa was the first restaurant located on Playa Los Muertos and has been
serving tne best of tropical Mexican cuisine since 1959. The family-owned
restaurant has maintained the spirit and style of the original thatched roof
structure. They are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and offer vegetarian,
vegan and gluten-free options. House specialties include Pepper Crusted
Tellowfin Tuna and La Palapa Shrimp. This is a very romantic choice.
lapalapapv.com
Tino´s
is a traditional Mexican seafood restaurant that has successfully blended local
seafood with fresh vegetables and spices to create unique spins on old
favorites. The restaurant began more than 18-years ago and has blossomed into a
local favorite. Everything is good here but you must try the zarandeado fillet.
I am told the secret is in the marinade. tinosvallarta.com
Chef
Hugo Ahumada’s restaurant Maia is situated in the lounge of the
Villa Mercedes Petit Hotel and also serves dinner each evening in the courtyard.
The chef’s goal is to prepare dishes that feed both your body and your spirit
and his philosophy permeates the cuisine and the décor. All meals are prepared
with regional ingredients and served in handcrafted vessels made by area
craftspeople using recycled wood. Artists’ works featuring cultural and
historic themes decorate the walls. The traditional Mexican menu is totally
unique showcasing organic foods and creative combinations.
facebook.com/Maia-restaurante
Puerto
Vallarta is as near a perfect destination as one can hope for and it is all
easily accessible and affordable and all necessary planning tools and
information can be found online. Next week we venture outside the city for
additional thrills. visitpuertovallarta.com
*”Value things not because of their worth but
because of their meaning.”
Originally Published September 2015
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