South America was conjoined with
Africa as part of the supercontinent Pangaea until approximately 225 million
years ago. When the continents drifted apart South America remained the
continent with the largest latitudinal expanse, a land mass that goes from the
Sub-Antarctic region to the Tropical Zone and the Andes Mountain Range that
extends 4,350-miles. This astonishing continent has been divided into 12
countries but there is none more filled with history, culture, biodiversity and
outdoor adventure than Ecuador. www.Ecuadorwww.ecuador.travel
Ecuador
straddles the equator and is bordered by Columbia on the north, Peru to the
south and east and the Pacific Ocean on the west. The country also lays claim
to the Galápagos Islands, 600-miles west of the mainland in the Pacific, a
UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1978. There are 4 geographical regions
containing 25,000 plant, 1,650 bird, 6,000 butterfly species and Cotapaxi, at
19,357-ft. the world’s highest active volcano. The country has the distinction
of being deemed “magadiverse” by UNESCO, one of only 17 places worldwide. Ecuador
was called the Viceroyalty of Peru under Spain but was officially called the
Royal Audience of Quito. It was liberated from Spain in 1822 and became part of
Gran Colombia along with Colombia and Venezuela until 1830 when it became the
Republic of Ecuador.
Bartolomé Ruiz de Estrada, Pizarro’s
pilot on his second voyage, is believed to have been the first European in
Ecuador. Francisco Pizarro arrived shortly thereafter, in 1532, with 180
additional conquistadors. Once subdued the indigenous people were enslaved and
by the 18th-century Africans were being imported as a labor force.
This history accounts for the extreme cultural diversity with the major
ethnicities being Mestizo, Amerindian, Spanish and Afro-Ecuadorian and although
the official language is Spanish fully 40% of the population speaks the Incan
language Quichua.
The flight to Quito, Ecuador’s
capitol, takes approximately 6 hours and provides stunning views of the Andes
including Chimborazo Volcano, at 20,565-ft. the highest in the hemisphere. The
city is nestled in a valley surrounded by these spectacular mountains and the
landing between them and in the midst of the city is something you will never
forget.
The Inca Empire is most closely
connected with Peru but in the 1400s, under the rule of Pachacuti, an
expansionist policy, Tahuantinsuyo, was instituted. The next ruler, Tupac
Yupanqui, reached Ecuador and began the systematic conquest of the people
living there. Ecuador was annexed to the Incan Empire and in the 1520s the
empire was divided and Atahualpa ruled from Quito.
In 1532 Pizarro arrived with dreams
of conquest and gold and on November 16th Pizarro kidnapped
Atahualpa for an enormous ransom. The Incas paid the ransom but the Spanish,
after a show trial, executed him in August of 1533. Rumiñahui, an Incan
warrior, continued the fight against the Spanish but upon realizing it was
hopeless he ordered Quito burned to the ground. On December 6, 1534 the Spanish
reestablished Quito as “San Francisco de Quito” and Rumiñahui was caught and tortured to death the next month.
Quito at 9,600-ft. is the 2nd highest
capitol in the world and the architectural history of the city is unique in
that the Spanish erected their religious buildings atop Incan temple sites. The
city was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978 and in 2011 it was
designated an “American Cultural Capital” because it has the largest and best
preserved historic center in Latin America. In order to best understand the
complex beauty of this city built in the foothills of the Andes one should
begin with a viewpoint. There are several options.
Quito’s Teleferico is an amazing aerial tram that ascends to the top of
Cruz Loma, from 9,680-ft. to 13,284-ft, in 10 minutes. At the top visitors get
views of the 14 peaks of the Avenue of the Volcanoes and a panorama of the
city. Services are available at the summit.
El
Panecillo, La Virgen de Quito on
Panecillo Hill was constructed in 1975. The 135-ft. sculpture is comprised of
7,400 aluminum, bronze and iron panels and depicts a winged Virgin Mary
defeating a dragon. A chapel in the base holds daily services at 8 AM and the
surrounding paved porch is an outstanding viewpoint.
City
tours begin in Independence Square amidst the neoclassical Carondelet,
Presidential Palace, the 1565 Cathedral of Plaza de la Independencia, the
Archbishop’s Palace, City Hall and the 1906 Heroes Monument. Visitors may tour
the first floor of the Carondelet to view the décor.
San
Francisco was constructed from 1536 until 1605 and is one of the largest
religious complexes in the hemisphere. It consists of a temple, chapels, a
convent and a museum. Highlights of a visit to the church are the rope belt of
St. Francis around the entrance window, the transept and the altarpieces. The
museum’s collection exceeds 4000 objects and features works from the Escuela
Quiteña, the Quito School of Art and Architecture. Highlights include
life-sized statues of the apostles adorned with gilt and glass eyes.
The market beneath the cathedral is
the best in town. It features regional crafts and artifacts. Interestingly the
shop contains a historic tunnel, in which wares are displayed, that connected
the monastery and the convent.
The
Museum of Pre-Columbian Art, the 1671 Casa del Alabado, is beautifully
conceived and carried out. The 5000 objects on display date from 4000 BC to
1587 and are housed in a 17th century colonial building with
adobe walls. The collection was amassed by two families and is representative
of the Incan cosmological belief that there were 3 worlds, energy, materials
and spirituality, lower, middle and upper earth. The artworks are singular.www.precolombino.com
The Church of the Society of Jesus
was constructed between 1605- 1765 and designed after the Jesuit Church in
Rome. If you have only time for one site in the city this must be it! The
Baroque church is adorned with the greatest amount of gold leaf of any church
in the world and it will take your breath away. The entire edifice is a
highlight but be certain to see the main dome with a mirrored center and
Goribar’s 18th-century portraits of the 16 prophets. www.ficj.org.ec
Ecuador’s most important
artist, Oswaldo Guayasamin, was a
native of Quito. His “indigenous expressionism” reflects his view of human
suffering and pain as an outgrowth of the violence in the 20th-century.
The 2002 Capilla del Hombre, the Chapel of Man, is a complex that honors and
memorializes Guayasamin through displays of his art and educational
programming. Gems of the collection are “The Mutilated,” a work comprised of
more than one million pieces that can be arranged in 2,250,000 combinations and
“The Avignon Pieta.” Guayasamin died on March 10, 1999 and his ashes are buried
in a clay pot, replicating the burial of the ancient people, beneath a tree on
the property. www.capilladelhombre.com
Archeological excavations are
testament to the fact that there were agricultural areas in the Amazon area of
Ecuador as early as 9000 BC and by 2000 BC agriculture flourished throughout
the country. With a history of food stretching back thousands of years it is no
surprise that Ecuador is a gourmet’s delight. Each region brings something
special to the table, the combination of flavors is unique and the numerous
restaurants each have a special twist on the traditional foods. Spearheading
the effort to create new recipes and document old ones are the chefs of the
Universidad de las Américas. They have published an outstanding cookbook filled
with historic and cultural information. www.udla.edu.ec
Accommodations are abundant in and
around Quito for all budgets. Visitors should select their lodging based on
location and services. A great choice for me was the NU House Hotel, a boutique
hotel in the heart of La Mariscal, the entertainment district. The area,
nicknamed “La Zona,” was lively at night and was within close proximity to
sites and attractions during the day. www.quito.com.ec
The Pan American Highway, a system of
roads that runs 29,800-miles from Prudhoe Bay, Alaska to Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, is the longest in the world. The idea for the road
was put forth at the Fifth International Conference of American States in 1923
but the proposal stalled until the 1930s. It was completed in 1963.
The Ecuador portion, "Troncal
de la Sierra," is the country’s major highway and is designated E-35.
Unlike the coastal routes in some other South American countries Ecuador’s road
is primarily inland and links many of the main cities and villages. There are
day trips from Quito or you can head south and drive to Cuenca. Many visitors
opt to fly, if your time is limited this is the best choice, but the drive will
give you a real taste of the country. It should be noted that a segment of the
highway is a toll road.
Otavalo is 60-miles north of Quito
and is the site of one of the most wonderful indigenous market in Ecuador. The
market predates the Incas and the Otavaleños sell their handcrafted goods daily
in the square with an especially large market on Saturdays. This is a great
place to purchase souvenirs and take photos of the Otavaleños in traditional
garb.
After
experiencing the market the next stop is Peguche, a village famous for textile
weaving and making of traditional instruments. Several touring musical groups
make their home here and there is a factory of musical instruments that is
accessible with an organized tour.
Spain granted huge estates to the
important families in Ecuador during the colonial period. These families
instituted a land ownership system in which the “hacienda” provided housing and
food to the native people in return for their labor. When the system was
dismantled many families kept some land and the main house and now offer these
historic buildings to travelers as fine lodgings and gourmet dining
establishments.
La Hosteria Hacienda Pinsaqui was
originally built in 1790 and, after an earthquake in 1867, lovingly
reconstructed. There are 30 suites, each one different but all with luxurious
amenities and antique furnishings. Simone Bolivar stayed there, in Suite #1, on
his trips during the war for independence and much of the room remains
original.
The 300-year old historic garden
blooms all year and includes the remains of a watchtower. Pinsaqui, “the house
between the rivers,” was a 16,000-acre estate and from the 20-ft tower the
owner could watch his fields.
The
hacienda offers a full range of outdoor activities including horseback riding
and theraputic massage, and the on-site restaurant presents some of the finest
cuisine in the country. A stay in La Hosteria Hacienda Pinsaqui is an unforgettable
and affordable experience at $139.00 per night for two. www.haciendappinsaqui.com
The French Academy of Sciences
launched the French Geodosic Mission, in 1735, to determine whether or not the
Earth was a perfect sphere or bulged at the center. One team went to Lapland
and the other team was sent to the Viceroyalty of Peru. Legend says that the
name Ecuador was a result of this expedition because the party grew tired of
writing Viceroyalty of Peru and referred to the area as Ecuador because of its
position on the equator, the imaginary that separates the northern and southern
hemispheres. Ecuador was chosen because other areas on the equator were less
accessible. Their measurements are the foundation of the current metric system.
There are two areas that commemorate
the mission and the equatorial line. The more elaborate of the two, the Middle
of the World Monument, Mitad del Mundo, is actually misplaced. The monument
consists of a walkway lined with busts of the expedition members leading to
a100-ft. stone trapezoid crowned with a brass globe replicating the Earth’s
position.
A multi-level ethnological museum is
inside the monument and it provides a wonderful overview of the regions and
cultures of the country. There are several dioramas devoted to the 2 distinct
cultures of Afro-Ecuadorians.
Approximately 650-ft south of the
Mitad del Mundo is the Museo Intinan located by GPS on the Equatorial Line of
latitude zero degrees zero minutes and zero seconds. The complex is a museum
that features Ecuadorian culture and crafts as well as providing photo ops with
one foot in each hemisphere. On a guided tour visitors learn that all the
constellations are visible here, day and night are always equal and you can
participate in scientific experiments.
An
interesting part of the tour is a visit to the area that illustrates the
lifestyle of people in the Amazon. Several real shrunken heads are on view and
we are informed that, when shrunken, your head is about the size of your
fist. www.museointinan.com.ec
Close by Intinan is one of Ecuador’s
most interesting hotel-restaurants, El Crater. The building is perched on the
edge of the only inhabited crater in the world with awesome panoramic views.
The restaurant serves international cuisine and it and each of the luxury
suites looks out over the geo-botanical preserved region. This is a must do.www.elcrater.com
Cuenca is 275-miles from Quito but
it too is an ancient and historic city laid out in the formal orthogonal
plan designated by the Spanish king. It is built on 3 levels, 4 rivers
cross the city and it is 2,500-miles above sea level. The city was called
Tomebamba when the Incas took it in 1480 and under Spanish rule in 1557 it
became Santa Ana de los Rios de Cuenca. On December 1, 1999 the intact
historical center of the city was designated a UNESCO World Heritage
Site. www.cuencaecuador.com.ec
Walking tours of the city begin at
the 1806 Casa de la Posados, the oldest house in the city. The house was used
as an inn for voyagers who came to trade here. The house has original tiles,
shutters and a mural on the wall between the first and second floors.
San Sebastian Church was constructed
using typical Spanish architectural elements. A huge cross outside the church
replicates the ones that stood at the entrance to the city to awe the
indigenous people. Natives were sometimes punished on the site.
The Municipal Museum of Modern Art is
situated inside the 1880s Temperance House, a colonial rehab facility for the
wealthy. The museum features art exhibits and is a prime example of colonial
architecture.
Cuenca’s
Old and New Cathedrals are both historic wonders. The Old Cathedral, Church of
el Sagrario, was built in 1560 using stones from the ruins of Tomebamba in the
walls and foundations. This church was only for the Spanish. An artistic
highlight is the tableau of life-sized figures of Christ and the Apostles.
The Cathedral of the Inmaculada
Conception, the New Cathedral, was built from 1884-1974 in Renaissance, Gothic
and Romanic styles. The cathedral is one of the largest in South America
because the bishop wanted a cathedral “as big as his faith.” Two important
items in the interior are the gold-flake covered altarpiece and a swarthy
skinned Christ figure.
Ecuador’s most notable export is the
Panama hat. Yes it is made in Ecuador and is only referred to as a Panama hat
because they were exported for workers constructing the Panama Canal. Some form
of the hat dates back to pre-colonial Ecuador. The best place to learn the
history of the hat and watch them being handcrafted, is Homero Ortega P. and
Hijos. The hats made here are sold worldwide and can cost as much as $3000.
Several of the rich and famous have purchased hats here and you too can shop on
the premises. www.homeroortega.com
There are several outstanding day
trips from Cuenca that will round out your fantastic Ecuador excursion.
Chordeleg
a pre-Incan town 30-miles from Cuenca is the most significant craft center in
the region. The plaza, José Maria Vargas, contains a Monument to the Artisans.
San
Bartolome is a historic Spanish town established near the gold mines. It is
known as the “guitar village” because musicians visit the craftsmen here to
have guitars made. The instruments are beautiful and are crafted for you for
$120-$350. Special notice should be taken of the traditional houses with tile
and small iron figures on the roofs.
Piedra de Agua Hot Springs and
Thermal Bath located in Banos de Cuenca was carved out of the volcanic stone.
This completely unique facility offers thermal-volcanic services including
massage caves, mud pool, and underground termas. Clients pay one fee for a day
of complete services, a mere $30.00..www.piedradeagua.com.ec
Cuenca has a full range of
accommodations but if you are looking a first class historic place to stay is
Hotel Posada del Angel. This restored colonial building is a short walk from
the city center and stays include full breakfast and WIFI.
www.hostalposadadelangel.com
We have only scratched Ecuador’s
surface and in part two we follow the sun to the middle of the world. In the
meantime ponder these facts about the country.
Ecuador is as close to a climactic
paradise as most of us will get. The temperature averages from 55-degrees at
night to 70-degrees in the daytime every day of the year, there are no
hurricanes or tornadoes, there are many sunny days during the rainy season and
fruits, vegetables and flowers grow year round.
The prices for food and
accommodations are very reasonable with the average cost of a gourmet meal for
two with wine and dessert at $30.00.
Ecuador’s
currency is the American dollar, many people speak English and there is a fair
sized American community of retirees. www.InternationalLiving.com/Ecuador
Originally
published in 2014
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