Saturday, February 9, 2019

Lisbon's Moorish Influences



Portugal is the westernmost country in Europe and, along with Spain, makes up the Iberian Peninsula. It is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean on the south and west, with 500-miles of ocean coastline and is  the approximate size of Maine. The country’s geography shaped its more than 800-year history and culture and  continues to affect tourism. Visitors can avail themselves of beaches and incredible surfing and within the same day explore world renowned terraced vineyards and several of the fourteen UNESCO World Heritage Sites. www.visitportugal.com
              
  
 It is believed that the earliest settlers were tribes that migrated from Africa around 2000 BC and the Romans arrived in 218 BC and named the entire peninsula Hispania. Visigoths took over when the Romans left and in 711 North African moors conquered the land and ruled until expelled five centuries later. 

The Moors named the land Al Andalus, the West, and altered the prevailing culture in tremendous ways. They introduced higher hygiene and literacy standards, algebra, trigonometry, pharmacology, new forms of architecture and added almonds, saffron, lemons, rice and sugar cane to the diet. Azulejos, the glazed ceramic tiles for which Portugal is noted, were also a gift from the Moors who used them to embellish their floors, walls and ceilings. Portugal was the most western portion of the Muslim Empire and they established their capital at Xelb, now Silves. In general the religions coexisted under Moorish rule. The Christians set out to reconquer the peninsula and during that time, in 1139, Afonso I took the throne.


In 1415 Portugal conquered Cueta in North Africa and the country’s Golden Age of discovery and exploration began. Portugal was the first to trade within West Africa, and, in 1441, Captain Antam Gonçalvez became the first to raid and capture Africans and begin the transatlantic slave trade. He captured less than ten people, 3-years later the first major slave voyage sent 6 ships and enslaved 235 Africans. They  were brought to Portugal and on August 8, 1444, in Lagos, Portugal, the first slave market was held and 20% of the profit was donated to the church. Eventually records indicate that Portugal kidnapped and transported more than 4,900,000 Africans. The Portuguese constructed the first slave fort, El Elmina, in Ghana and were under contract to supply the Spanish colonies with slaves.

Lisbon, Portugal’s capitol, has always been an important maritime city and was said to have been founded by Ulysses on seven hills above the Targus River. The city’s focal point is the Castelo Sao Jorge, a Moorish citadel until rebuilt in 1511 as the king’s home. The streets surrounding it retain their medieval configurations. A river cruise is an ideal way to obtain an overview of Lisbon and gain a sense of its seafaring importance. Highlights of a cruise are the Ponte 25 de Abril Bridge and Cristo Rei. The bridge is reminiscent of the Golden Gate and is ½ mile long. Nearby is the 92-ft. tall Christ statue atop a 269-ft. pedestal.

Lisbon was pivotal to the slave trade and many of its most visited sites are connected to that history. The Guinea House, in Praça do Comercio, was the trade’s custom house. There records were kept and taxes were collected. It was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. A major slave market was also located here.

Mocambo was an area where blacks settled and the name, African for refuge, speaks volumes. The community dates from the 1500s, home to both free, enslaved and fugitive blacks, it was a spiritual place. In 1515 a black mass burial pit, Poço dos Negros,was established there for internment of dead blacks. 

Central to Rossio Square is the Memorial as Vitimas do Massacre Judaico de 1506. It memorializes the execution of more than 2,000 people accused of being Jewish. This event is said to be a precurser to the 1536 Portuguese Inquisition. During the  15th-century the square was a gathering place for blacks.

Belém is in the historic section of Lisbon most closely linked with the Golden Age of Discovery. There are sites that must be visited including the Padrao dos Descobrimentos, the Monument of the Discoverers. The 1960 monument is 170-ft. tall and thirty-two people who impacted the events are depicted. Prince Henry the Navigator faces Africa. The design is that of a ship and imbedded in the courtyard is a compass showing the exploration routes.  An exhibition inside, displayed until April, showcases 43 significant African artifacts.
The 1521 Torre of Belém was constructed on the river as part of a defense system and is still on its original footprint. The lower floors were public spaces while the third floor housed the royal apartments. The exterior is beautifully carved and the interior is Gothic. The Moorish details include the watchtowers and cupolas. 
Pope Nicholas V issued a papal bull in 1455 that sanctioned Prince Henry’s slavery efforts. It was read aloud in the Lisbon Cathedral. It legalized perpetual enslavement of pagans.  Sé de Lisboa Cathedral, dating from the 1100s, was built on the site of a ruined mosque by Christian crusaders. Four features are very important, the Romanesque rose window, the South Portal, the tomb of Vasco da Gama and the baptismal font said to have been used to baptize St. Anthony. 

Adjacent to the cathedral is the UNESCO World Heritage Monastery of St. Jeronimos where da Gama spent his final night before embarking on his far East journey in 1497. The two-level cloister is highly ornate and filled with Moorish elements. It is overseen by the Hieronymites order whose task is to pray for the mariners. The nearby National Coach Museum houses the best European collection royal carriages. 

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Saturday, February 2, 2019

Asbury Park, New Jersey


The thing about icons is that we somehow expect them to be arrested in time and evoke our feelings in the same way forever.  They do not disappoint and they certainly do not succumb to the lure of changing times.  This can prove daunting for artists, structures and, most of all, cities. Asbury Park, New Jersey has managed to strike the perfect balance between memory and modernization, retro and revitalization and is a wonderful destination for families, group or solo getaways, beach lovers and music aficionados. Visitors can select from a host of activities as well as spend nights “hanging out” in a plethora of music venues. Asbury Park provides the opportunity to experience a unique beach destination and to “rock on” even if you never rocked before. #asburyparknow

James Bradley, a broom tycoon, purchased 500 oceanside acres in 1871 for $90,000 and named the tract after America’s first Methodist Episcopal Church, Francis Asbury. Asbury was designed around a boardwalk and incorporated green spaces, churches and a commercial area. The city thrived, with additions such as  amusements, theaters and a carousel from the late Victorian Era until the 60s as a recreation destination. Music emerged as an important lure and the historical roots run deep and wide including John P. Sousa, Billie Holiday, Bon Jovi, Count Basie and Bruce Springsteen. Area options increased and people chose other places than Asbury for vacation and the city, like many at the time, became less attractive to visitors.

Asbury Park is currently undergoing an epic renewal. Many beautiful Victorian structures have been repurposed and contribute, along with the modern edifices, to make the city an architectural gem. After strolling the boardwalk and watching the waves lap the shore, step into the world of Asbury Park and benefit from historic sites,  great dining and outstanding live music performances.
On September 8, 1934 the cruise ship SS Morro, sailing between Havana, Cuba and New York City, caught fire and eventually beached near Asbury’s Convention Hall. More than 130 passengers and crew died prompting maritime reforms, use of flame-retardant materials, meticulous evacuation drills and automatic fire doors, still enforced. A monument to the catastrophe is located near the Convention Center.

Stephen Crane, author of the Red Badge of Courage resided here, from 1883 until 1892, and attended Asbury Park Public School. The house can be viewed from the exterior only.



Two of the quirkier sites are Tillie, painted originally by Leslie Thomas, the smiling male logo of Asbury Park and Madam Marie’s Psychic Booth. Tillie dates from the early 1900s and is located at Ocean and Second Avenues. Marie told fortunes from her blue boardwalk booth from 1932 to 2005. Her “Temple of Knowledge” was a traditional stop for performers, Ray Charles, Frank Sinatra, Judy Garland, while in Asbury. As a busker Springsteen often performed in front of Marie’s. The stall is operated today by her granddaughter.  

Silverball Museum Arcade  is designated one of the country’s best. The museum preserves and presents past pinball and video games with more than 600 games on display. The on-site café offers all the standard boardwalk foods from hot dogs to Dippin Dots. www.silverballmuseum.com/asbury-park

You have seen Danny Clinch’s photographs in places including album covers, Vanity Fair and Rolling Stone and now you can have a more personal experience at the Danny Clinch Transparent Gallery at the Asbury Hotel. This creative space features, exhibitions, music and art sales and live performances in an inviting atmosphere.

The Stone Pony opened in 1974 and the rest is legendary. As one of the most famous music venues in the world it is most closely associated with Springsteen and Steve Van Zandt. The club’s unofficial theme song is “Havin’ A Party” and truer words were never spoken. You can purchase tickets online. www.stoneponyonline.com

You can  party on at the nearby Asbury Lanes. This bowling alley/diner/music venue is an entertainment mecca. The state-of-the-art sound system jettisons all the offered activities, with DJ and live performances, to the stratosphere and you can dine as you soar. www.asburylanes.com
Porta Asbury Park replaced the renowned Student Prince, site of the first meeting of Springsteen and Clarence Clemons, the Big Man. Porta is recognized as having the area’s best pizza. Seating is at picnic tables, to foster the party atmosphere, and the live music is awesome. pizzaporta.com/asbury-park

The Asbury Distilling Company offers tours, tastings and superior quality handcrafted spirits you can imbibe from a bar with views of the distilling process. This award-winning distillery is the first and only craft distillery in Asbury since prohibition. #asburydistillery


Cubacån Restaurant and Bar on the boardwalk is a fine dining establishment with great service and the décor and ambiance of Old Havana. The menu consists of traditional dishes with a modern twist and their signature mojitos. Try the street corn! www.cubacanrestaurant.com

Modine’s creates southern Low Country cuisine  with modern influences using locally sourced ingredients. It is a wonderful southern refresher in a northern city. www.modineasbury.com
                                                                 chicken and waffles
Cardinal Provisions is famous for its brunch. The chefs put a delicious spin on breakfast staples and the portions are mind-boggling. They are also open for lunch and dinner. www.crdnal.com
Asbury Ocean Club will be a luxury accommodation option this fall with units currently on sale. They offer condominiums and 54 boutique hotel rooms on 17-stories overlooking the ocean. The residences are designed with 10-ft. ceilings, Hansgrohe kitchen and bath fixtures, wrap around terraces, ocean panoramas and offer personalized concierge service, fitness facilities and an outdoor shower. www.asburyoceanclub.com


The remodeled Asbury Hotel once housed the Salvation Army and is a perfect example of blending Asbury’s history and constantly evolving music and arts culture. The 110-guest rooms accommodate all travelers with everything from suites to  bunk beds. Amenities include custom made mattresses, upscale linens and designer bath products. Artwork in the public spaces reflects the music heritage and the welcoming lobby offers comfortable seating, games, newspapers and the Soundbooth Bar. Live music, sunrise yoga and the Asbury Pool are great additions to the experience. www.theasburyhotel.com

Asbury Park has numerous scheduled festivals and the list is available online. www.visitnj.org/nj/events

                                                 Find your bliss in  Asbury Park.