Memphis on My Mind

          All roads lead into and out of Memphis via, air, river, rail and road. Just as it has always been, the area continues to function as a place of cultural incubation and a vehicle for the transmission of its unique historic, culinary and musical traditions. @memphistravel.com

When Spanish conquistador Hernando de Soto entered the area in 1541 he encountered large native settlements but by the time the French and British explorers reach the area in 1673 they found it largely deserted until the Chickasaw tribe migrated into the region in the 1600s. In 1739 the French erected Fort Assumption on the Mississippi River’s fourth bluff on the site of modern Memphis. Shortly thereafter, in the 1760s, Abraham is documented as the first recorded black in Memphis 1760s.

Memphis was officially founded on May 22, 1819 when West Tennessee was opened for settlement. The government purchased the land from the Chickasaw Nation and in the 1830s it was a major departure point for Native Americans on the Trail of Tears. Three investors, including Andrew Jackson, laid out the city with four squares and named it after the Egyptian city in North Africa.

Memphis rapidly became a hub for the plantation cotton trade in the Delta. As a result of the trade huge numbers of slaves were imported and Memphis became a lucrative auction center. Efforts to gain freedom aboard Underground Railroad operated in the area. 

Joseph Burkle established the Burkle Estate in 1849. Tours of his home, now “Slave Haven Underground Railroad Museum”, feature the cellar, trap doors and tunnels and displays on the ante-bellum era and slave trade. His operation was so clandestine that documentation was not released until 1991. Of special note is the huge magnolia tree on the exterior. It functioned as a signal to freedom seekers because it is green all year. slavehavenundergroundrailroadmuseum.org


Tennessee seceded from the Union in 1861 and the importance of Memphis became immediately apparent. The only east–west rail link across the South, the Memphis and Charleston Railroad, was there and the Confederates moved to fortify the city. The Union recognized its strategic worth and fought the 90-minute Battle of Memphis in 1862 for control. The Union won and held the city throughout the Civil War. One, fruitless, Confederate raid was led by Nathan Bedford Forrest. Forrest was born in a 2-room cabin in Memphis. The site is designated with a marker.

Enslaved individuals flocked to the city because it was behind Union lines and by war’s end the black population rose from 3,000 to 20,000 blacks living there. 

During Reconstruction a massacre took place from May 1-3 in 1866. The riots were caused by racial tensions with returning black members of the Union Army. A white rampage resulted in the death of 45 African Americans and the wounding of 75 and the destruction of 4 churches and 12 schools.

Robert Church, Sr. was born in 1839 and used his entrepreneurial skills to become the South’s first African American millionaire. He purchased a large parcel of land on Beale Street and in 1899 constructed a 2,000-seat amphitheater and park for use by African Americans because they were denied access to public parks. In 1906 he founded the Solvent Savings Bank & Trust Company. The current 7.68-acre Church Park displays historical markers and a trail.

An African American History Tour of Memphis, A Tour of Possibilities, is the best way to get an overview of the city’s history and visit all the relevant sites. The tour is immersive, informative and comprehensive driving tour and is a great orientation for understanding the unique cultural legacy Memphis nurtured and exported internationally.

According to legend the Mississippi Delta begins in the lobby of the 1923 Peabody Hotel in Memphis and ends on Catfish Row in Vicksburg and since 1841 Beale Street has been the beating heart of the Delta. It attracted regional musicians brining with them musical forms developed in the fields and church and sharpened during hard times. New musical forms grew from the blending of blues, gospel, jazz and soul and the music and its makers gained worldwide fame. Beale Street continues to be a popular entertainment and dining area and was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1966. 

A bronze statue of W.C. Handy atop a marble pedestal stands in Handy Park. It was dedicated in 1931 with Mahalia Jackson in attendance. Handy, known as the “Father of the Blues”, in 1912 became the first to record a Blues song, “The Memphis Blues”, in the US. Tours of his grey shotgun house are offered. The featured memorabilia and artifacts are significant to the Blues legacy. He, his wife and 6 children lived in Memphis from 1905 until 1918.

Sam Phillips established the Memphis Recording Service in 1950 on Union Avenue. On his Sun Records label he recorded Johnny Cash, Elvis Pressley, B.B. King, Howlin’ Wolf and Ike Turner. Turner’s recording of “Rocket 88” is considered the first rock ’n’ roll record. Sun Studio tours and studio time are available.

Stax Records opened 7-years later and recorded almost solely African American artists and can be credited with promoting Southern soul music. The original building was demolished and in its place is a museum and school. The Stax Museum Of American Soul Music
 is arranged chronologically and begins with a 17-minute orientation video and relocated regional church paying homage to the roots of Southern music. Highlights of the galleries are memorabilia, photos and interactive areas. Isaac Hayes’ gold-plated, peacock blue, 1972 ‘Superfly’ Cadillac El Dorado rotates and is a great photo op. The museum has partnered with the Smithsonian Institution to preserve the memory and contributions of artists including Sam and Dave, Otis Redding, Aretha Franklin, Isaac Hayes and David Porter. www.staxmuseum.com

                  While in Memphis you too can become a star by booking time in a studio at 4U Recording. Tours are available. Three state-of-the-art studio spaces are on view when not in use. Call for reservations. 4urecording.com

                  

                     On February 12, 1968 thirty-two sanitation workers from Local 1733 went on strike for more pay and better working conditions. Dr. King visited in March and returned in April to lend his support. He stayed at the Lorraine Motel. On April 3^rd he gave his most famous speech, “I’ve Been to the Mountaintop” at the Mason Temple. On April 4^th a sniper assassinated him with a single shot from the bathroom window of a boarding house across the street. He was taken to St Joseph’s Hospital and died in the emergency ward at 7 pm.

                  Lorraine Bailey, co-owner of the motel, upon learning of King being shot, died of a cerebral hemorrhage. The strike was settled on April 16^th.

                  The largest manhunt in our history began immediately for James Earl Ray who escaped in a white Mustang. More than 1,500 FBI agents were involved. On June 8^th he was captured at Heathrow Airport in London. He was returned to Memphis in a Thompson Tank and while incarcerated pre-trial he was guarded by 14 men t a time. He pled guilty and received 99-years. Afterwards he claimed to be innocent.   

                  The Lorraine Motel is now the National Civil Rights Museum. The museum chronologically presents the history of African Americans in the United States as well as the story of the Civil Rights Movement. Here you can step on the bus with Rosa Parks and March in Selma. The tour ends with a view into King’s room 306, preserved down to his final meal. Civilrightsmuseum.org

                  

                Dr. Ernest C. Withers was a police officer with a penchant for photography whose photographs impacted the history of an era. He was hired by the Chicago Defender Newspaper to photograph the Emmett Till trial in 1955 and these images are those with which we are still familiar. The Withers Collection Museum & Gallery is housed within his former studio and his legacy includes more than 1,800,000 images.  

                  Memphis has a culinary legacy that permeates its history and at the heart of it is the justifiably famous barbecue. While barbecue remains the “legacy” dish, new restaurants are infusing chef created meals with local ingredients and adding unique spices and flavors. Black Restaurant Week is a culinary festival that features the best of the best:

Alcenia’s has been showcased on the Food Network and the Travel Channel. If you are seeking soul food and great ambiance, Alcenia’s is ground zero. My tip is to leave room for dessert.

Curry N Jerk Authentic Caribbean Cuisine presents an excellent fusion of family recipes from Panama and Jamaica. The original culinary traditions were a mixture of cultures and regions and Curry N Jerk upholds that tradition. This is a casual, full-service, restaurant. 

        Supper Club On 2nd
is a sophisticated urban bistro. The emphasis here is on crafting a dining

experience with selections selected to be representative of Memphis’ casual elegance. They offer three signature cocktails and you should try them all. 

         Mahogany Memphis’ menu takes southern cuisine to a new level and then adds

Creole flavorings. Bring a friend, dine inside or on the porch and soak up the Memphis vibe. 

         Caption by Hyatt Beale Street Memphis is the perfect place to wind down after a legacy-laden day. The hotel, located

Downtown, emphasizes a feeling of community, and is only steps away from Beale Street and an abundance of dining and

entertainment venues. Caption offers all the amenities as well great views of the river.

                  Memphis blend of music, heritage, history and culture is totally unique. Explore this city and preserve the legacy. #MustbeMemphis

  

'Cry 'Havoc!', 1863 Gettysburg, PA

'Cry 'Havoc!' And Let Slip The Dogs Of War’

Samuel Gettys, one of the earliest area settlers, established a tavern in south-central Pennsylvania, at a crossroads, in the 1770s. He donated funding to the American Revolutionary cause and after the war he was land rich and cash poor. He sold his land to his son in 1786 and James Gettys laid out a 210-lot town with a central square and named it after his father. In 1800 Gettysburg became the county seat and by 1860 the town’s population hovered around 2,400 and included 186 “free” African Americans.

In 1863, at the midpoint of the Civil War, Union and Confederate forces focused on Gettysburg. The town’s importance revolved around its highly strategic location. It was 8-miles from the Maryland border, one of the first towns in the free North and it was at the center of ten roads, one of which led to Harrisburg, thirty-five miles away, the ground featured good defensive positions and it was east of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Lee, fresh from a Chancellorsville victory, felt this was the time for an offensive into the North that would strike a blow at civilian morale and force Lincoln into peace negotiations. 

Lee moved his forces into Pennsylvania without knowledge that the Union army was already stationed there. His cavalry commander, J.E.B. Stuart, was to reconnoiter, guard the flank and safeguard the mountain passes as Lee’s troops moved north. Stuart went raiding and did not give advance information on the area’s Union presence. Lee’s troops encountered the Union troops on July 1, 1863 and the Battle of Gettysburg began. 

Lee’s forces numbered 70,100 and 93,700 men were under the Union command of Union Major General George Meade. Hundreds of civilians were forced to choose between fleeing and sheltering in place. Many African Americans fled, with good reason. In June of 1863 the Confederate cavalry crossed into the area and captured blacks, slave or free, and took them southward for sale. Any white person caught harboring a black person had their home burned to the ground.

Hundreds of civilians of all ages lived through the havoc and horror of that July in 1863. They found ways to survive and to serve. Their stories, those of the common citizen, are finally being told. Gettysburg has found ways to present their contributions in innovative and engaging ways within the authentic spaces where they took place.

A walking tour through Downtown Gettysburg provides an excellent overview of how and where the fighting occurred. Guides are licensed and tours can be adapted to cover topics that are of personal interest. Gbltg.com

                  The Battle of Gettysburg officially began on July 1 but in actuality an advanced guard marched into town on June 26 and during a brief encounter on Baltimore Pike a Union soldier was killed. On the morning of July 1, advance units of both armies met on the northwestern edge of Gettysburg. The Confederates pushed the outnumbered Union soldiers into the town itself and chaos ensued.

Gettysburg Beyond the Battle Museum will open to the public on April 15, 2023. Ken Burns has endorsed the museum and deemed it “spectacular”. The $11-million museum features 12 galleries featuring 1220 exhibits within 5,000 square feet and 5 short films are narrated by Stephen Lang. Tours begin with the natural history of the region and the earliest indigenous presence. The exhibit areas showcase a replicated Gettys’ Tavern, Mag Palm’s Rocking Chair, John Burns’ Rifle and eyewitness accounts of Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address. 

Gettysburg was the largest battle ever fought in North America and the Caught in the Crossfire Experience places visitors in a home trapped in the midst of the battle. This 360-degree immersive experience is so uncannily realistic that visitors hear the sounds, feel the movements and watch as their shelter is pierced with bullets. As you emerge from the basement of the home you find that it has been riddled with bullets. This museum is not to be missed. Tickets are timed and parking is free. GettysburgBeyondtheBattle.org

                  The Children of Gettysburg 1863 Museum is situated in what was the Rupp House. It was at the heart of the battle and the rear of the original structure housed Confederate soldiers. The museum is completely interactive and fun for all ages but of particular interest to grades K-5. In 4 major galleries the museum features the stories and activities of children during the battle and afterward. It is free for children under 12 with an adult. GettysburgFoundation.org

                  The Shriver House Museum and Ten-Pin Alley can be credited for originating the representation of civilian life during the Battle of Gettysburg. They were the first and continue to do an outstanding job of relating their story. The home was constructed in 1860. It was to have functioned as a tavern and bowling alley but the war intervened. The tour begins with a visit to the parlor as it looked pre-war and continues into a room that replicates the house’s destruction. A southern sniper’s nest is in the garret and on the lower level the tavern is on exhibit. ShriverHouse.org

                  Wonder Women’s Hidden Valor Walking Tour travels 1.7 miles and tells the stories of the women who served in many capacities in 1863. Many of these marginalized women have attained their place in history through inclusion on the tour. Stories of African American women, including Mag Palm are told. #getyourguide

                  Jennie Wade was born at 242 Baltimore Street but the Jennie Wade House Museum is located at 548 Baltimore. She left her home to tend to her sister who had just given birth. She was baking bread for the soldiers as a stray .58 caliber bullet came through the door and killed her. She was the battle’s single civilian fatality. The tour is self-guided and takes you throughout all the areas of the small duplex. Many of the furnishings are original and the bullet hole can be seen in the door. GettysburgBattlefieldTours.com/Jennie-Wade-House

                  In 1774 Rev. Alexander Dobbin purchased 200-acres of land and in 1776 he brought 2 slaves into the area to help build his home. These enslaved were the first blacks in the area. Rev. Dobbin lived there, one of the oldest structures, with his wife and 19 children. The house passed to Dobbins’ son who added a second floor in 1825. Ironically this was done with the inclusion of a crawlspace because he was a stationmaster on the Underground Railroad. The hiding place can be seen on a tour. The Dobbin House Tavern is now an outstanding restaurant with 6 historic dining sections. Of special note are the 17-foot long chestnut bar and the 1750 Continental Flag.  The Gettystown Inn offers 9 guestrooms with period furniture. DobbinHouse.com

                  Brafferton Inn Bed & Breakfast, formerly the Codori House, is the first recorded deeded town property. The 1786 fieldstone house now hosts guest in 18 unique accommodations. No two rooms are alike and each offers special amenities. Gourmet breakfast is served each morning and homemade snacks are available during the day. www.brafferton.com

The Mansion House 1757 is one of the oldest taverns in America and in 1820 became a stop on the Underground Railroad. It features an excellent menu, great service and 6 restored rooms and suites with a chef inspired breakfast. The tavern served as Stuart’s headquarters and Lee is known to have dined there. Dwight and Mamie Eisenhower ate there often and Mamie continued to dine there after Ike’s death.MansionHouse1757.com

                  On July 3 Pickett’s Charge took place and ended in failure causing Lee to withdrew to Virginia on the 4^th of July. Lee’s invasion of the North had been stopped. The people of Gettysburg were left with 22,000 wounded and dead and 3,000 dead horses. The Confederate wagon train of wounded stretched 17-miles. Many buildings in the town were used as hospitals. The last remains were found on the battlefield in 1996 and are interred in the Soldiers' National Cemetery as "Unknown Civil War Remains."

                  African American Basil Biggs returned home to discover 45 Confederates buried on his property. Biggs obtained a contract to exhume battlefield bodies and place them in coffins. Carrying 6 at a time in a wagon he reburied approximately 3,000 bodies. destinationgettysburg.com/stories-gettysburgs-black-citizens

                  President Abraham Lincoln presented his Gettysburg Address at the National Cemetery on November 19, 1863.

The “Return Visit” statue was placed in Lincoln Square in 1991. It is one of the most photographed statues in Gettysburg. The sculptor used casts of his hands and an 1865 cast of his face as models. Lincoln holds his hat aloft and inside you can see the mark of its maker. This is great photo op as well as a perfect ending to unique visit. #destinationgettysburg