Sunday, July 16, 2023

The Empire of the Sun, Lima, Peru

                  Early artifacts indicate that more than 14,000 years ago Peru was inhabited along the western coastline. These early societies, the Moche and Nazca, gradually migrated inland and by 800 BC established trade routes across the Andes Mountains. The Inca, the Children of the Sun, created an empire that was at its height from 1438 to 1533. Although the empire lasted less than 100-years it flourished culturally and financially and became the most expansive kingdom in pre-Columbian South America. https://www.peru.travel/en

                  Francisco Pizarro was an ambitious and cruel man who arrived in Hispaniola in 1513, heard tales of considerable gold in South America, and set out as a conquistador in 1524.This expedition failed but in 1526 he succeeded in almost attaining his goal. He came near enough to the Incan Empire to verify his belief that there was gold to be taken. Finally, in 1532 Pizarro and 180 Spanish conquistadores reached Peru. When they asked where they were they were told they were in “Biru,” eventually known as Peru. The first colony he founded there was San Miguel de Piura.

                  Ladinos, culturally Spanish Africans who lived in Spain, accompanied Pizarro on his expeditions. They functioned as conquistadors, servants, slaves, soldiers and settlers. They were largely responsible for building and maintaining the settlements. Juan Valiente is a well-documented black conquistador who served in Peru and ss a result was awarded land, Indian slaves, and an Indian village that paid him an annual tribute.


                                                                                        Photo By Mary Harrsch

Pizarro’s immediately went to meet the Incan Emperor Atahualpa. Atahualpa felt secure in the knowledge that his thousands of men could maintain his safety at the meeting. He failed to understand the power of the weapons arrayed against him and the devastation caused by European diseases. On November 16, 1532 the emperor met with Pizarro in the plaza of an Incan city. In an ambush the guards were killed and in the ensuing massacre 2,000 Inca were killed and approximately 5,000 were imprisoned over a 2-hour period. They took the emperor prisoner and received a ransom of a room filled once with gold (13,000-lbs.) and twice with silver (26,000-lbs.). The Incans paid the ransom but he was still executed for treason. He was garroted and his body was left on display in the plaza.


When the conquest was complete the Spanish Empire took jurisdiction over the entire region as a Viceroyalty. The indigenous inhabitants knew the area as “Limaq” but the Spanish abbreviated it by removing the “q.” Lima was established on the Epiphany in 1535 and was therefore known initially as the City of the Kings. It became capital of Peru because of its access to the sea, was the economic, social, cultural and political capital of the Viceroyalty of Peru and was the most significant of the Spanish’s South American domain. In 1988 Lima’s Historic Center was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The most historic colonial structures are arrayed around or easily accessed from the Plaza de Armas, a square laid out by Pizarro himself. He also selected the exact location for the Government Palace and the Cathedral. Today the square is essentially the same with the addition of a bronze fountain added in the mid-17th century.



The Presidential Palace is the official residence of the president of Peru and houses the executive branch of the government. Historically the 1535 structure was the House of Pizarro, a royal residence for the conquistador and his family.  The building stands on an ancient burial ground that held a shrine. In 1541 Pizarro was attacked and killed during dinner in this mansion. Upon his death it became the residence of the Peruvian Viceroyalty and new seat of government. As a result of an earthquake it was rebuilt in the 1920s in French Baroque. The building is surrounded by a wrought iron fence and displays Pizarro’s Coat-of-Arms. Daily, at noon, a Guard Mounting Ceremony takes place. Each month on the 3rd Sunday the President of Peru and the First Lady are often in attendance.




Captain Jerónimo de Aliaga was granted land and in 1535 he built the settlement’s first mansion, Casa Aliaga. The residence has continuously been owned and occupied by Aliaga’s descendants since then. The home is opulently furnished with art, architectural objects and items of historic interest. Entrance is only offered via guided tour or private guide but is well worth advance planning.

 Casa Riva Agüero was constructed in 1760 by the Aguero family. It now houses the Museo de Artes y Tradiciones Populares, the Folk Art Museum, and a large archive and library. 

The Museum Andres del Castillo’s collection of minerals is featured in the 1606 Casa Belen. This mansion has been fully restored.

Original architectural elements, original doors and grilled windows, are on view at the House of the Thirteen Coins. The one-story home, rococo in design, was owned by the López-Flores family.

In 1565 the Spanish Ruler granted permission to construct the Casa de la Moneda as a currency stabilization venue. The house has been restored and now is the site of the Museo Numismatico del Perú. On display are examples of current and historic Peruvian coins and bills.



An outstanding example of elegant colonial architecture is the 1730 Palacio de Torre Tagle. It was constructed by the former treasurer of the Royal Spanish fleet and is now the Office of Foreign Affairs. The building is recognizable by the carved wooden balconies and the coat of arms on the facade. On the interior there is Moorish architecture in the form of a typical Moorish patio and galleries. The palace was constructed in 1735 of imported materials. Admission is by special request only.



Pizarro chose the location and placed the first stone for the first church in the settlement. A stone facade was added to the baroque structure in 1649. It was designated The Cathedral of Lima in 1541. A tour of the interior reveals carved altars, 13 chapels, sculptures and a museum. Highlights of a tour are the vaulted ceilings, ornate tiles, gold-plated main altar and a glass coffin with Pizarro’s remains. The Moorish influence is everywhere.


Another Lima jewel is the complex consisting of the Church of San Francisco and the Convent of San Francisco, Construction began in 1537 of a temporary church. In 1550 a permanent church was begun. The sun-yellow church offers a guided tour and entrance to the catacombs, church and Franciscan monastery. Each area showcases unique aspects and displays. The church’s 1546 Mudejar dome, unique on the continent, and the neoclassical main altar adorn the church. The church is dedicated to St. Francis of Assisi and murals of his life are found in the convent.

The library has 25,000 volumes and 6,000 parchments, the 1572 “Biblia Regia” and the first Spanish language dictionary. Many of the books are so delicate they may only be handled by the monks.

The Catacombs below the monastery are the largest in the city. They hold as many as 25,000 people organized by types of bones and placed in Moorish influenced internment vaults.

Join the children of the sun as you step into history. #VisitPeru

Friday, July 14, 2023

On the San Antonio Mission Trail

“There’s a yellow girl in TexasThat I'm going down to see.”     unknown

                  For approximately 14,000 years prior to European contact, Southern Texas was home to allied groups of Native Americans. These indigenous people have become known collectively as the Tāp Pīlam Coahuiltecan Nation and called the Coahuiltecans. They were hunter-gatherers and built their villages near waterways. Spanish conquistador Alonso Álvarez de Pineda, documented as having mapped the Texas coast in 1519, and Spain began to claim the region. The coming of the Spanish was devastating to the native population with the introduction of weapons, European diseases, enslavement, forced assimilation, mandatory migration and conquest. Explorers came seeking gold and shortly after Franciscan missionaries came in search of souls in the 1600s. The explorers left, some of the Franciscans were killed when their message was not well received and most of the original missions were abandoned within fifty years.

                  LaSalle introduced a French presence into the area in 1684 and in fear of large-scale encroachment two years later Father Damián Massenet and General Alonso de León were sent to seek out and destroy the French. They found only an abandoned fort that they burned to the ground. The Spanish developed a plan to establish a chain of missions, staffed with Franciscans, to develop faithful Spanish, catholic citizens and to impede takeover by other European nations. The Franciscans were mandated to care for the Texas missions and the first friars were dispatched from New Mexico in 1632. Twenty-six missions were founded in Texas and the missionaries brought with them a new culture, different farming methods and introduced cattle into the area.



                  San Antonio was known by the original inhabitants as Yanaguana, “Land of the Spirit Waters.”  The Spanish named it after St. Anthony of Padua because they landed there on June 13, 1691. The city was not formally founded until 1718. #Visitsanantonio



San Antonio Missions National Historical Park, an international destination, was inscribed as a World Heritage Site in 2015. The park consists of 5 colonial missions, Mission Concepcion, Mission San José, Mission San Juan, Mission Espada and Mission San Antonio de Valero, familiarly known as The Alamo. The structures are approximately 2.5-miles apart, to enhance the settlers ability to join forces if attacked, in a chain that stretches along the San Antonio River for 9-miles. UNESCO.org

The unique and permanent significance of the missions is the transmission of cultures among all the ethnicities in the region, language, religion, lifestyle, art, etc. While touring the trail careful note should be taken of the blending of both secular and religious architectural styles. 

The Roman Rite Catholic Mission Espada, established in 1731 is the most southern of the missions in the National Park. Gazing at the facade one can see the three mission bells as well as the carved entry door and stone arch. An operational portion of the original irrigation system is on-site. Self-guided tours are available daily with guided tours offered on the first Saturday of each month.

In 1731 Mission San Juan Capistrano was relocated to a location near the San Antonio River. Interred in a cemetery on the grounds are some of the first mission residents. Capistrano grew food and provisioned several missions and communities in Louisiana. A restored Acequia today waters the Spanish Colonial Demonstration Farm and the chapel and bell tower are also in use. The congregation is made up of some direct descendants of the original inhabitants. The paved Yanaguana Trail is a path that meanders through an area resembling that of the 18th-century.



Mission San José is known as the “Queen of the Missions.” Architecturally it has stunning elements, flying buttresses and a Rose Window. The window is believed to have been the creation of Pedro Huizar and is a renowned illustration of Baroque architecture. The mission also displays original Native American accommodations and an outdoor oven.



The oldest extant unrestored stone church in America is the Mission Nuestra Señora de la Purisima Concepción de Acuña. A visit here is like a trip through time. It boasts its original facade and inside there are original frescoes and elements of Moorish architecture. The church was once painted with colored patterns that have long ago faded. It continues to be active.




Mission San Antonio de Valero, popularly known as the Alamo, was founded in 1718 as San Antonio’s first mission. It was relocated to its present site in 1724, secularized in 1793 and was used as military fortress in the 1800s. In 1793 Spanish officials seized San Antonio’s five missions from the church and distributed its lands to local farmers. Later, in the 1800s, the Spanish military stationed the Second Flying Company of San Carlos de Parras, a cavalry unit, there. They named the complex after their village, “Alamo,” meaning “cottonwood.” The Alamo was Immortalized in 1836 when a group of Texas soldiers arrived to defend the Alamo against the Mexican Army. It must be noted that San Antonio and the Alamo were in Mexico, not Texas. TheAlamo.org



Alamo Plaza, once the Alamo’s courtyard, is a complex featuring the church and the Calvary Courtyard, canons, a bronze statue of Susannah and her daughter Angelina Dickinson and The Alamo Cenotaph. The welcome center, canon exhibits, welcome center are also found just outside the Alamo. Susannah and her daughter hid during the battle. They were released at its end to spread the news. The Spirit of Sacrifice, the Alamo Cenotaph, was dedicated in 1940 to honor the fallen defenders.



Start with a free timed entry pass to tour the church and participate in interactive activities. Exhibits interpret the history of the event. The 192-ft. Long Barrack is the oldest structure in the complex and was the site of final retreat for the men. Many died there. It is believed that Davy Crockett was killed just outside the church. At the conclusion of the battle the defenders were cremated by the Mexicans. Later the ashes were collected and placed in a tomb in the rear of San Fernando Cathedral.





Cavalry Courtyard is filled with life-sized bronze sculptures depicting 14 figures from Texas history as part of the Alamo Sculpture Trail. The trail links the Alamo with the Briscoe Art Museum. William Barret Travis and James Bowie were co-commanders. Travis is depicted drawing a line in the sand. Davy Crockett is shown with his rifle Betsy and clad in buckskin.

Hendrick Arnold, a guide, a spy and a mulatto is one of the newer sculptures. He was present at several battles and worked for the Texian Army. He died in 1849 and is buried near the Medina River.



Emily West Morgan, a free mulatto, is credited with delaying General Santa Anna giving Houston time to defeat his forces. Additionally, she divulged information on his whereabouts. Legend has it that she is the “The Yellow Rose of Texas” of song. The addition of her sculpture is also new.  

San Antonio participates in the CityPASS program. Visitors can see it all for less. www.citypass.com/san-antonio


Sunday, July 2, 2023

Great Wolf Lodge, Perryville, MD

Upon entering the Grand Lobby guests are immediately aware that they are all in for a memorable adventure in a completely new, $250-million venue, designed as a destination that appeals to families of all ages. Perryville, Maryland boasts, not only the newest, but the largest of the Great Wolf collection of twenty resorts in North America. #GreatwolflodgeMD

Great Geyser Water Park is the indoor, 128,000-sq. ft. water recreational area with 22 water slides, raft rides, splash zones and numerous beach chairs and a constant temperature of 84-degrees. High Paw Holler and Forest Flume are two exceptionally exciting body slides. High Paw Holler sends riders racing through a tunnel, jettisoning them out and speeding on the outer edge. Forest Flume is equipped with flumes and 360-degree loops. It is the longest slide in the state at 275-ft. The iconic Otter Cave Waterworks features 6 water slides and a 1,000-gallon tipping bucket that sprays those below every 4-minutes. 



Great Wolf Adventure Park, a 57,000-sq ft. section of the resort, is filled with a variety of activities that create opportunities to ignite the spark of adventure, educate and enhance family fun. MagiQuest is an interactive journey that requires the use of special wands to join in the quest. Adventure Park also entices visitors into other galleries including the 24-hour Northern Lights Arcade, Ten Paw Alley bowling, Build-A-Bear Workshop, miniature golf and Oliver’s Mining Company where you learn to pan for gold. The showpiece of this park is Howler’s Peak multi-level ropes course. 

There are four restaurants that range in price and menu options, Hungry as a Wolf, Timbers, Campfire Kitchen and Barnwood. All four of them have allergy-free items to choose from. Barnwood is the most upscale of the options. Freshwoods Market, Dunkin’ and Woods End Creamery feature foods for those wanting a snack or a quick bite to eat.



The Grand Lobby hosts events throughout the day and evening. Guests are treated to character appearances, Yoga Tails, arts and crafts and a nightly Howl & Hustle Dance Party. Each evening the day ends with a bedtime story, the immersive, “Legend of Luna.” The sound and light production was created for the property.

There are 700 family suites from which to choose. Overnight stays in the lodge include 2 days of waterpark entry. A special discount is available for reservations that are good until April 30, 2024 if made before July 7, 2023.  There will be a 50% discount on the standard rate when using the promo code: GRAND.

Great Wolf gives back through activities and purchases. A portion of the money raised helps fund Make-A-Wish and Believe in Tomorrow Children’s House at Johns Hopkins. Put your money where your fun is! www.greatwolf.com/maryland


Showboat Resort Waterpark, Atlantic City



“Now…bring me that horizon.” — Captain Jack Sparrow

                  Atlantic City, New Jersey has been a popular destination since the Lenni-Lenape, the first to inhabit Absecon Island about 12,000 years ago, migrated there during the summer months using a 5-mile route that continues to be used today. They called the island Absegami or “little water.” In the late 1700s an English Quaker, Thomas Byrd, acquired the entire island as a result of a land grant in a settlement with New Jersey proprietors.

                  In 1754 Jeremiah Leeds was the first non-indigenous permanent settler. He established a farm, Leeds Plantation. Leeds died in 1838 and his wife Millicent established a tavern. She can be credited for operating the first entertainment venue in what is now Atlantic City. Further travelers were hampered by a lack of accessible transport until 1854 when the train came to town. The city was then formally laid out, with streets parallel to the Atlantic Ocean named after international waterways and east and west streets after states.

                  Hotels and railroads complained because of the sand that was continually tracked into the lobbies and railcars. The answer was an 1870 wooden, portable, boardwalk that was 8-ft. wide, the first in the United States. Today AC boasts the longest boardwalk in the world. It is almost 6-miles long features the first American entertainment pier constructed over the water. 



                  The early 20th-cetury brought airlines to Atlantic City. On May 10, 1920 Atlantic City designated Bader Field an “airport’” The word was created there because the island was able to be reached by both air and water.

                  Atlantic City is entering a new phase in hospitality and entertainment with the addition on June 30th of the $100-million Island Waterpark at Showboat Resort. It is designed to be the largest indoor beachfront waterpark in the world! The waterpark is more than 120,000-sq. ft., features more than 317,000-gallons of water and is geared perfectly for all ages and family entertainment.



                  There are 11 thrill-inducing slides from which to choose as well as 3 Tidal Racers and 5 waterslides for children. Surfing tournaments will be held on the 1,000-ft Wild Wave FlowRider and surfing lessons will be offered. A host of activities for younger guests are featured including an interactive Kids Cove.

                  One-of-a-kind indoor waterpark attractions include a more than 1,000-foot Coconut Zero-Gravity Coaster, a 300-foot-long RipTide Zip Line and a 30-ft. tall Tree House that is available for rental. All of the attractions are visually connected by a 6,500-sq. ft Drift Lazy River.



                  Adults have their own attractions from which to select, 6 bars and the 10,000-ft. sq. Paradise Adult Island. The island showcases VIP cabanas, Atlantic Ocean swim up bar, Bliss Pool, Peloton bikes and DJ music. Island Waterpark was created as a 365-day destination. The glass roof is retractable and can project images, stars, scenery, to alter the atmosphere and mood. There are constant views of the water and glimmering sunshine.






                  Non-waterpark options are equally exciting. The Showboat, a non-gaming venue, offers nightlife entertainment and the 200,000-sq. ft. Lucky Snake Arcade, the world’s largest, the Raceway Go Kart Indoor Track, 40-ft. climbing wall and more than 600 games. Island Plaza, an outdoor boardwalk amphitheater, classic boardwalk fare and a seasonal Festival Marketplace is an extension of the property.

                  Many Showboat Resort guestrooms are currently undergoing renovations to be completed in the fall of this year. There are several types of rooms to select from including 255 Premier Lite Apartments.



                  Guests can choose from daytime general admission, Twilight Admission and All-Access VIP admission. Children under three receive free admission and the military and Atlantic City’s first responders receive a $10 discount. islandwaterparkac.com

There is no better place to follow the sun.