Mexico’s Playa Mujeres Excellence Resorts

Mexico’s Playa Mujeres Excellence Resorts

                  Nearly 5000 years ago Mayans migrated into the Yucatán region of Mexico and between 500 BC and 900 AD they constructed large commercial, ceremonial and religious centers. The first documented Europeans to sail into the area, although they did not land, were part of the 1513 Ponce de León expedition. Four years later Francisco Hernández de Córdova, while seeking slaves, landed. Encountering indigenous people he asked where he was in Spanish. They responded in their language, “ Tetec dtan. Ma t natic a dtan,” basically, “What are you saying?”  Córdova believed they were answering his question and, hearing their words as “Yucatán”, named the land accordingly.

                  This unbelievably lush and bountiful region remained relatively isolated until the 1950s because the only access was by sea. In the mid-20^th century both a railway and a road were constructed to connect the Yucatán to the rest of the country. Because of its former inaccessibility the region has maintained much of the Mayan culture and is home to one of the largest indigenous populations and the greatest number of indigenous language speakers.

                  The Yucatán’s semi-tropical eastern coastline is lapped by the Caribbean waters, famous for being comprised of seven distinctive colors of blue. The pristine beaches and world’s 5^th largest barrier reef make this a tourist destination just as it was a sacred and secular destination for the ancients. There are currently more than 2,500 ruins, of varying sizes, in the area including Chichen Itzá, Cobá and Tulum. Seventeen of the ruins have been restored and two have been designated Wonders of the New World. 

                  Mayan roads were engineering marvels. They were comprised of three layers covered with limestone and crushed shells. These “white roads” were luminescent in the dark and were gateways to the culture and to the most beautiful and luxurious places along the coastline. Modern roads follow many of these same paths and lead to still stunning destinations.

                  Three adjacent resorts comprise the Excellence Group Luxury Hotels and Resorts complex and are located just a few miles from Aeropuerto de Cancun off one of those ancient roads at the end of a stunningly landscaped boulevard that appears carved out of the jungle’s lush foliage. Architecturally the resorts blend harmoniously with the setting, the sea and each other. The two newest properties, Beloved and Finest, offer unique experiences and opportunities to immerse oneself in the culture and spirit of the country.

                  Finest Playa Mujeres is the larger and newer of the two luxury resorts. It is the sole all-inclusive, family friendly resort in the Cancun area and it accomplishes this in a novel manner. One entire section of the resort is for families while a second section is reserved for adults only. A common area accessible to all guests separates the sections.

                  There are more than 400 accommodations, including rooftop suites and casitas, the smallest of which is 800-sq. ft. and features a full range of amenities. The exclusively adult Excellence Club accommodations feature Bvlgary toiletries and an upgraded minibar. ADA rooms are available. Many activities are offered and Finest is an ideal wedding location because of the setting and the layout.

                  Finest offers 12 all-inclusive international restaurants complete with vegetarian options, 16 bars including the trendy Sky Bar, 10 swimming pools, a 3,500-sq ft. state-of-the-art fitness center and spa. The One Spa menu boasts treatments based on both traditional and modern techniques with a special hydrotherapy experience that is linked to the sea. www.finestresorts.com

Beloved, a 5-star adults only boutique all-Inclusive resort is the most romantic destination in the area.  There are 109 luxurious accommodations with designer amenities, Jacuzzi and minibar. There are 4 restaurants, 4 bars, 3 swimming pools, a 304-ft. beachfront and complete selection of water based activities and land excursions. It provides a singular romantic and intimate experience with an unprecedented level of service. There are 3 service providers per guest.

Beloved’s 35,000-sq. ft. Spa & Wellness Center presents guests with numerous treatment options. The signature hydrothermal therapies that are taken in the Agua Viva facility include the crystal steam Hammam, Roman Caldarium and Swedish Sauna. Each guest is assigned a personal thermal valet and treatments end with champagne and chocolate covered strawberries. www.belovedhotels.com

Excursions to nearby sites can be arranged from either resort that create a perfect combination of traditional culture and sensual Caribbean luxury. There are several nearby day-trip notable cultural destinations including Mayan ruins, cenotes and Xcaret Mexico. Xcaret Mexico is a must for a quick overview of authentic Mexico, its traditions and architecture. Highlights of a visit include activities in an underground river, exhibitions and "Xcaret Mexico Espectacular," a musical trip through history. www.xcaret.com

Excellence Group Luxury Hotels and Resorts is a best bet. Specials and packages are offered online and you will be amazed at how affordable your visit can be.

Travel Tips:

                  There are small things about traveling that can be problematic but charging your personal devices has just be removed from the list by a new device, the Twist World Adapter Duo. This universal travel adaptor functions in more than 150 countries, has 2 USB ports, a universal AC outlet, a built-in MacBook charging port and you can charge as many as 3 devices at a time. The adaptor is round, lightweight, a mere 3.5 by 2.5-inches long and it is available online at the Grommet. www.thegrommet.com

                  The Kingdom of Peacocks, by Fadel AlMheiri, is a great vacation read. Originally written as one of a trilogy of screenplays. it deftly conjures up pictures of unbridled adventure. The story, though not a historical narrative, recounts a tale of Portuguese exploration and exploitation in the early 16^th-century when Portugal ruled the seas. The book is available in hardback, paperback and Kindle editions.

Puerto Vallarta, Mexican Bliss

 “Dale valor a las cosas, no por lo que valen, sino por lo que significan.”  Gabriel García Márquez *

Puerto Vallarta is set like a gemstone in the center of the scythe-shaped Bahia de Banderas between the sea and the majestic Sierra Madre Mountains. The 26-mile long Bahia de Banderas, Banderas Bay, is the largest bay in Mexico and the sheer beauty is breathtaking. P.V., as it is referred to by visitors and residents alike, is internationally famous for its beautiful sunsets, beaches, geographical diversity, flora, fauna, cuisine, culture and world-class hospitality. The weather is close to perfect and even the rainy season, November through March, does not put a damper on living “la vida loco”. visitmexico.com

Indigenous tribes lived in the region for centuries, sustaining themselves by fishing and farming, prior to first contact with Europeans in 1524 when Francisco Cortes encountered 18,000 indians. They were carrying feathered banners and the Spainards named the area the Valle de Las Banderas or the Valley of the Flags. The next fully documented visitor, Don Pedro de Alvarado, 17-years later is credited with “discovering” the site that is now Puerto Vallarta. For more than 300-years P.V. was a small fishing village largely overlooked except by the occasional ship seeking a port in a storm, a resupplying point or pirate vessels waiting to launch an attack on unsuspecting Spanish treasure ships. The bay during those years was referred to as Humpbck Bay because of the large number of whales in the waters.

In 1851 Guadalupe Sanchez began to grow crops on land he purchased to ship to the silver mines in the surrounding mountains. His business flourished as the mines began to use it as a mining supply transfer point. Originally referred to as Puerto Las Peñas, as the settlement grew it was renamed Ignacio Vallarta to honor a former governor. In 1918 it was officially named Puerto Vallarta and was designated a Mexican city. The Rosita Hotel was the first hotel in the area. It opened in 1948 and provided ample accommodations for the few visitors who came.

A stunning series of events took place in Puerto Vallerta in the 1960s that would catapult the city onto the international tourism stage. The tale begins with the meeting of director John Huston and P.V. architect Guillermo Wulff. Huston was scouting locations for his latest movie, The Night of the Iguana and Wulff proposed that he consider Mismaloya, a small fishing village just south of the city. Mismaloya’s beach is located in a cove and behind the village rises the jungle. A set was erected and filming, with Richard Burton, began in 1963.

Richard Burton was in the throes of a love affair with Elizabeth Taylor, she joined him there and Burton and Taylor purchased two houses across the street from one another. Burton had a bridge constructed, Lover’s Arch, between the two so that he would not have to cross the street. Soon movie stars, intellectuals and paparazzi began arriving and with the movie opening in 1964 a spotlight was turned on Puerto Vallarta as a tourist destination that has never dimmed.

Huston established a home on leased land in a Chacala Indian community in Las Caletas and it is there that he wrote his autobiography. The island can be visited but only on a guided tour. The movie set is closed and Casa Kimberley, the Taylor home, is being renovated into an upscale hotel. Views of the house and the bridge can be obtained from the street.

One of the most incredible aspects of visiting Puerto Vallarta is the fact that Mexican culture envelopes you. No areas are so tourist filled that you do not have the opportunity to experience the city with and in the same ways the residents do.

There are not a large number of museums in the city but Museo Arqueológico del Cuale, the Archeological Museum, provides an overview of the cultural history. The museum opened in 1978 and underwent a renovation in 2005. The permanent collection was donated from other Mexican museums and contains artifacts dating from the Precolumbian Era circa 5000 B.C. and continues through the Spanish conquest. Gallery highlights of the chronological exhibits include artworks and pre-Hispanic shaft tombs. Interpretive information is available in English.

Strolling the streets of the downtown is an important part of experiencing the city. The cobblestone streets are a pathway to the finest restaurants and entertainment. The most famous of these routes is a walk along El Malecón. This walk should be taken during both daylight and dusk as the experiences are totally different. Malecón extends from the Hotel Rosita to Los Muertos Beach, a 1-mile, 12-block pedestrian zone bordered by a seawall. Fidencio Benitez, a native of the indigenous Huichol, decorated the patterned pavement with designs. Bronze sculptures line the walkway and are perfect places to take photographs. The most iconic and most photographed is Rafael Zamarripa’s “El Caballito de Mar,” “The Boy on the Seahorse”.  A lad with a cowboy sombrero rides a seahorse situated against the sea backdrop. The seahorse represents the city’s durable links with the sea trades, the sombrero signifies Mexican history and culture and the welcoming smile on the boy’s face visually depicts the warm welcome the city extends to all visitors. The statue was originally created in 1960 and is approximately 9’ in height. Guided ArtWalk tours are offered that include nine art galleries as well as guided sculpture tours. vallartaartwalk.com

Art lovers must pay homage to Manuel Lepe, one of Mexico’s most famous artists, by visiting El Palacio Municipal, Old City Hall. His mural is displayed there. Lepe was born in Puerto Vallarta and had no formal training. His works are so colorful and exuberant that UNICEF has used his designs.

Performances of Los Voladores de Papantla, the flyers of Papantla, are regularly scheduled on the promenade. Five elaborately costumed men ascend a 98’ pole. Four of the men plunge from the pole, tethered by one foot, and spin around the pole 13 times before alighting on the ground. When multiplied by 4 the total number of spins equals the Aztec sacred number 52. The fifth man remains balanced atop the pole as he plays music to accompany the performance.

Virgin de Guadalupe Church was completed in 1951 and dedicated to the patron saint of both the city and Mexico. The church is a mix of styles with the central portion being neo-classical with renaissance towers. The church is located on the site of an earlier chapel and the larger edifice was begun in October of 1912. After several interruptions work on the dome began in 1940. A tour of the interior showcases a 1945 venerated oil painting of the Virgin by Ignacio Rameriz.

The church’s most outstanding architectural feature is a brick bell tower topped by a crown. The crown was originally gilt and designed after one worn by Empress Carlotta of Mexico. The original was destroyed by an earthquake in 1995 and was temporarily replaced with one made of fiberglass. In 2009 a new 31’ by 48’ crown, with a glass dome and a cross, created by Carlos Terres, was placed atop the church. The design incorporates symbols, 8 angels bear the crown, 24 gemstone boxes stand for the 24 hours in a day and 5 large palms signify the 5 most important events in the history of the city. The first 12 days of December the church becomes the pivotal site in Puerto Vallarta’s most important faith-based event, the Fiestas de la Virgin Guadalupe. Year round Virgin de Guadalupe Church is a major pilgrimage site.

Playa Los Muertos, Deadman’s Beach, is the city’s most popular beach. There are several stories about the naming of the area but the one that is supported by oral testimony and archeological evidence points to the beach having been a sacred burial site for local natives. Remnants of gravesites, pottery shards and bones in ceramic vessels have been recovered.

                 CNN designated Los Muertos Pier one of the most beautiful worldwide. The pier, designed by José de Jesús Torres Vega, opened in 2013 in the heart of most romantic portion of the beach. The $2.4-million pier includes a pedestrian zone, seating, docking facilities and an evening light show. This is a perfect place to watch the sunset. Adjacent to the pier are restaurants and shops ideal for browsing after dark. 

Puerto Vallarta offers a wide-range of lodgings, from apartments to luxurious villas, from self-catering to all-inclusives. The city has won awards as the friendliest city in the world and that extends to their extensive and uniformly high quality hospitality network. That being said, I suggest that visitors choose accommodations based on location, service, environmental responsibility and service to the community. The adults-only Villa Premire Hotel & Spa exceeded my expectations.

The Villa Premire has been honored with numerous awards for a commitment to personalized service that begins the moment you step onto the property. You are greeted with a cold towel, a refreshing drink and a 5-minute massage in a private area. Pillow and accommodation fragrance menus are presented at check-in and guests select the types of pillows and which of seven aromas you want your room to have. Each of the 83 rooms and suites offer boutique bath products and designer linens. On-site restaurants feature traditional cuisine through room, pool and table service.

Villa Premire is a primary supporter of La Orquesta Escuela de Puerto Vallarta (OEPV), the School Orchestra of Puerto Vallarta. This community program is designed to teach music with an additional emphasis on developing leaders, academics, self-discipline, communication and collaboration skills, transcending class, race and social barriers. There are three skill levels from beginner to advanced incorporating ages 8 to 22. All students receive scholarships from 10% to 100%. Additional information on performances and donations is available online. facebook.com/oepuertovallarta

The Jazz Foundation is a new addition to P.V.’s  nightlife scene and the city’s first jazz club. Opened in June in Downtown, the club is designed to replicate a traditional jazz club with  specialty drinks and Creole cuisine. As an all-inclusive jazz forum the facility includes a library and features special events and programming. jazzpv.com

Among Puerto Vallarta’s numerous claims to fame is the designation , “Gourmet Capital of the Mexican Pacific.” Noted for its traditional cuisine UNESCO has recognized the variety and quality of the traditional cuisine of inestimable value as an intangible cultural heritage and there are more than 300 restaurants from which to choose. Each November the 10-day Festival Gourmet International Vallarta is held. festivalgourmet.com

La Palapa was the first restaurant located on Playa Los Muertos and has been serving tne best of tropical Mexican cuisine since 1959. The family-owned restaurant has maintained the spirit and style of the original thatched roof structure. They are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and offer vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. House specialties include Pepper Crusted Tellowfin Tuna and La Palapa Shrimp. This is a very romantic choice. lapalapapv.com

Tino´s is a traditional Mexican seafood restaurant that has successfully blended local seafood with fresh vegetables and spices to create unique spins on old favorites. The restaurant began more than 18-years ago and has blossomed into a local favorite. Everything is good here but you must try the zarandeado fillet. I am told the secret is in the marinade. tinosvallarta.com

Chef Hugo Ahumada’s  restaurant Maia is situated in the lounge of the Villa Mercedes Petit Hotel and also serves dinner each evening in the courtyard. The chef’s goal is to prepare dishes that feed both your body and your spirit and his philosophy permeates the cuisine and the décor. All meals are prepared with regional ingredients and served in handcrafted vessels made by area craftspeople using recycled wood. Artists’ works featuring cultural and historic themes decorate the walls. The traditional Mexican menu is totally unique showcasing organic foods and creative combinations. facebook.com/Maia-restaurante

Puerto Vallarta is as near a perfect destination as one can hope for and it is all easily accessible and affordable and all necessary planning tools and information can be found online. Next week we venture outside the city for additional thrills. visitpuertovallarta.com

*”Value things not because of their worth but because of their meaning.”

Originally Published September 2015

Kansas City, Missouri, Facing History

           From the time of the first European settlement Kansas City has had a diverse population.  Étienne de Veniard, Sieur de Bourgmont is the first recorded nonindigenous visitor of the area and he and his Native American wife settled there. The 1753 Treaty of Paris established Spanish control. West Port was founded in 1833 and a year later Westport Landing was established as the last provisioning stop for travellers going further west. In 1850 Westport officially became a town named Kansas. www.visitkc.com
            The French introduced slavery into the area in 1719. They were largely from Haiti and worked in the lead mines. The French also bartered for native slaves with the tribes. Generally Missourians did not have plantations with large numbers of slaves with the vast majority of owners holding less than ten slaves. There was a free black population prior to the Civil War and by the January 11, 1865 emancipation 39% of the service eligible black men fought with the US Colored Troops.
         A few years prior to and when the Great War began in 1914 rural African Americans migrated north for better jobs. This movement (1900-29) caused the rise of a black middle class and the growth of black owned and operated businesses. At the close of the war America viewed itself differently and returning African Americans were determined to avail themselves of the American Dream. Kansas City stood at the nexus of historic changes and it has maintained museums and attractions that allow today’s visitors to become immersed in the events and meet the people who changed our way of life.
          The National WWI Museum and Memorial is the absolute best place to start. It is the country’s sole museum dedicated to preserving and promulgating the stories of this global conflict. A drive began to build it in 1919 and 2-years later the site was dedicated in the presence of the military leaders of the 5 Allied nations, the only time they were together. It opened in 1926, is one of the top 23 museums in the nation and is a National Historic Landmark. The collection exceeds 100,000 objects.
          Entrance into the museum is gained via a glass bridge over a field of 9,000 red poppies, each poppy representing 1,000 battle casualties. Self-guided tours should begin with the introductory film. Galleries explore the war from all viewpoints and they are filled with large photographs, artifacts, dioramas, interactive areas, personal stories and films.  Highlights of the tour include replicated trenches, a 1917 battlefield Harley, von Hindenburg’s tunic and a 1918 Model T ambulance.
             More than 375,000 African Americans served in WWI, 200,000 of them served overseas and approximately 10% saw combat. The most famous of the black combatants were the Harlem Hellfighters of the 369th Infantry, originally the 15th New York Colored National Guard regiment. The French suffered massive casualties and in 1917 the 369th was sent to replenish their numbers. The French called them 'Les Enfants Perdus,’ The Lost Children, until their prowess in battle caused them to dub them the Hellfighters. In 1918 two of the men were awarded the Croix de Guerre, the first Americans to receive the award in the war. They spent more days, 191, on the front than any other Americans, none of them were ever captured and they never lost any ground once taken.
Guardian Spirits, Courage, Honor, Patriotism and Sacrifice, adorn the 217-ft. tower above the Liberty Memorial. It is illuminated at night and a portico affords visitors a panoramic view. Displays inside are dedicated to Missouri’s WWI participation. Housed within the building is the Pantheon de Guerre, once the world’s largest painting. Currently it measures 400-ft. long and 42-ft. high. www.theworlsdwar.org
           The Hellfighters left an indelible mark abroad under the leadership of bandleader and regimental lieutenant James Reese Europe. He was assigned to form a band, he did and they introduced jazz to the world. To better understand the impact of jazz on the world you can stroll over to the 18th & Vine Historic District and the American Jazz Museum and Walk of Fame.
         The museum interprets the history of jazz through changing exhibits, the Masters Exhibit and Jazz and Technology and the Blue Room, an on-site jazz club, presents regularly scheduled live performances. Highlighted masters include Armstrong, Ellington, Fitzgerald and “Yardbird” Parker. The jazz experience is conveyed through use of memorabilia, artifacts, photographs and personal items. www.americanjazzmuseum.org
Selected jazz artists are honored annually with a bronze star placed on the walkway around the museum. The ceremony is followed by a concert at the nearby historic Gem Theater. This year’s inductees included Louis Armstrong, George Benson and Nina Simone. www.americanjazzwalkoffame.com
The American Jazz Museum shares a facility with the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum just as the stars in both fields shared the period before and between the World Wars.  No lens better relates the story of the African American’s 20th-century pursuit of their goals than this $2.5-million museum. Baseball, America’s sport, tells a uniquely historical American story. From the Civil War until 1890 there were black and interracial baseball teams. In 1890 the National Association of Base Ball Players agreed to bar blacks from organized teams, nonetheless urbanized areas of the country continued to have all black teams.
            In 1920, a group of owners led by Rube Foster, established the Negro National League, the first black league.
Visitors enter through stadium-style turnstiles and begin the tour with an orientation film, “They Were All Stars.” The museum tells the story with a masterful use of artifacts, photographs, documents and 15 interactive stations. As you complete the tour visitors are invited to join the most legendary players of the Negro Leagues in the form of 10 life-sized bronze sculptures at their positions on the Field of Legends. Satchel Paige’s original gravestone is on display and it should be noted that there is no birthdate. The Negro Leagues Baseball Museum has a complete schedule of educational activities and special events. This information can be accessed online. www.nlbm.com
             Two of the Negro Leagues’ greatest legends, Leroy Robert “Satchel” Paige and John Jordan “Buck” O’Neil, are interred in Forest Hills Cemetery. O’Neil’s gravesite is unadorned but a monument dedicated to his career and tireless work on behalf of the Negro Leagues is located in Monarch Garden. Satchel Paige is honored with a large memorial on Paige Island. Visitors can obtain information and a map in the office.
Walt Disney moved to KC with his family at the age of 9. During WWI he served in France as an ambulance driver but returned in 1919 and took a job with a newspaper. That same year he was laid off and went into the cartoon business for himself. He raised $15,000 and founded Laugh-O-Gram Studio at 31st and Forest Ave. His business took a downturn and he was forced to sleep in the studio, his only companion a mouse that would serve as the inspiration for Mickey Mouse. The studio is not open for tours but it is decorated on the exterior.
KC has several world-class museums and exhibitions that cast a spotlight on the cultural history of the United States up to and after WWI. Each offers self-guided tours and each is totally unique.
The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art is actually 2 structures, the first built in the 1930s.  The newer, Bloch Building has been deemed an “architectural marvel.” The museum’s collection encompasses 5,000-years of world art and is rated one o the top museums of its type in the nation. The African Galleries are creatively displayed, incorporate videos and encourage seated contemplation. The stunning American Indian Galleries include objects from pre-European contact to contemporary American Indian art of North America. Galleries are arranged geographically beginning in the East. The exhibit areas flow into one another representing the fact that early boundaries were permeable. There are two restaurants and a garden on-site so that visitors can make a day of it. www.nelson-atkins.org
The Kemper Museum of Contemporary Art exhibits a collection of modern and contemporary art. The restaurant, Café Sebastienne, is an absolute must see. The café serves seasonal, local cuisine in an artistic setting. The Kempers commissioned African American artist, Frederick James Brown, to adorn the restaurant’s walls. His work, “The History of Art,” is specific to the site and features 110 variously shaped, interlocking, canvasses that interpret individual artworks that span the globe and date from 1445 to the mid-1990s. Dining there is a totally unique experience. www.kemperart.org
KC’s Union Station dates from 1914 and closed as a depot in 1985. This station was the one used by soldiers returning from all the major wars as well as musicians spreading jazz around the country. The Grand Hall has ceilings 95-ft. high and a Harvey’s Restaurant. Harvey’s has always been located there. It achieved fame for its food, service and the fact that it was the first restaurant to have women servers.
Union Station now hosts special events and exhibits and is the home of the top-rated Science City. “Union Station stories” are displayed over 3-floors in conjunction with a special “Shoe Shiners Exhibit.” It recognizes the role of the shoe shiners who worked in the station and visitors learn that a master shiner could earn up to $200 per day. www.unionstation.org
Kansas City Fun Trolley Tours depart from the station. These guided tours provide a good overview of the history and attractions in the city. Tickets are available online and reservations are recommended. www.kcfuntours.com
Fine-scale miniatures are tiny, functioning, replicas of furniture, artwork and ceramics created by artisans. The world’s largest collection of miniatures and one of the largest antique toy collections is on view at the National Museum of Toys and Miniatures. Two KC women gathered the foundation of the 33,000-sq. ft. collection. The museum now houses 72,000 objects, 21,000 miniatures, largely on a 1:12 scale, 1-inch equals 12-inches. The miniatures are stunning, displayed singularly and in room settings, and each drawer opens and each painting is framed and exquisite. A 7-inch cabinet with 19 secret compartments is a real showstopper.  Self-guided tours include several galleries with interactive displays so visitors can test their skill.
Toys are exhibited on the 2nd-floor both thematically and chronologically. No matter what your age you are bound to find the toys that evoke childhood memories. A series of dollhouses are displayed, the featured one is a 9-ft., furnished dollhouse that once had working electricity.
Also on this floor is a special exhibition, “Civil Rights: Black Paper Dolls in America.” The paper dolls are part of the collection of Arabella Grayson and it ranges from the first commercially produced black paper doll, the 1863 Topsy, to current dolls of the Obamas. Interpretive panels help visitors explore the cultural and historic implications of these toys. It will be on view until August 2016. www.miniaturemuseum.org
Kansas City is recognized as the Barbecue Capital of the World and it is home to more than 100 barbecue restaurants. Henry Perry, an African American, is considered the “father of Kansas City barbecue” because his was the first documented commercial barbecue restaurant. Henry moved to the city in 1907 and began selling slabs of barbecue wrapped in newspaper from a cart. Annually the American Royal World Series of Barbecue, with 500 international teams, is held in KC. This year the dates are Oct. 26-30.
KC has many other restaurants that serve a variety of cuisines. One of the most famous of the other eateries is the Flea Market Bar & Grill in Westport. It serves the “best burger” in the city and has been featured on the Food Channel five times. www.westportfleamarket.com
The Hilton President is a best bet for accommodations. This 4-star hotel is located within the 8-block Power and Light Entertainment District, within walking distance to many attractions and 1-block from the free trolley that offers access to all the others.
Lieber and Stoller wrote, “I'm going to Kansas City, Kansas City, here I come,” in 1952. I think that is still a great idea. #visitKC

Ecuador, South American Paradise

          South America was conjoined with Africa as part of the supercontinent Pangaea until approximately 225 million years ago. When the continents drifted apart South America remained the continent with the largest latitudinal expanse, a land mass that goes from the Sub-Antarctic region to the Tropical Zone and the Andes Mountain Range that extends 4,350-miles. This astonishing continent has been divided into 12 countries but there is none more filled with history, culture, biodiversity and outdoor adventure than Ecuador. www.Ecuadorwww.ecuador.travel

           Ecuador straddles the equator and is bordered by Columbia on the north, Peru to the south and east and the Pacific Ocean on the west. The country also lays claim to the Galápagos Islands, 600-miles west of the mainland in the Pacific, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1978. There are 4 geographical regions containing 25,000 plant, 1,650 bird, 6,000 butterfly species and Cotapaxi, at 19,357-ft. the world’s highest active volcano. The country has the distinction of being deemed “magadiverse” by UNESCO, one of only 17 places worldwide. Ecuador was called the Viceroyalty of Peru under Spain but was officially called the Royal Audience of Quito. It was liberated from Spain in 1822 and became part of Gran Colombia along with Colombia and Venezuela until 1830 when it became the Republic of Ecuador.

          Bartolomé Ruiz de Estrada, Pizarro’s pilot on his second voyage, is believed to have been the first European in Ecuador. Francisco Pizarro arrived shortly thereafter, in 1532, with 180 additional conquistadors. Once subdued the indigenous people were enslaved and by the 18^th-century Africans were being imported as a labor force. This history accounts for the extreme cultural diversity with the major ethnicities being Mestizo, Amerindian, Spanish and Afro-Ecuadorian and although the official language is Spanish fully 40% of the population speaks the Incan language Quichua.

          The flight to Quito, Ecuador’s capitol, takes approximately 6 hours and provides stunning views of the Andes including Chimborazo Volcano, at 20,565-ft. the highest in the hemisphere. The city is nestled in a valley surrounded by these spectacular mountains and the landing between them and in the midst of the city is something you will never forget.

           The Inca Empire is most closely connected with Peru but in the 1400s, under the rule of Pachacuti, an expansionist policy, Tahuantinsuyo, was instituted. The next ruler, Tupac Yupanqui, reached Ecuador and began the systematic conquest of the people living there. Ecuador was annexed to the Incan Empire and in the 1520s the empire was divided and Atahualpa ruled from Quito.

           In 1532 Pizarro arrived with dreams of conquest and gold and on November 16^th Pizarro kidnapped Atahualpa for an enormous ransom. The Incas paid the ransom but the Spanish, after a show trial, executed him in August of 1533. Rumiñahui, an Incan warrior, continued the fight against the Spanish but upon realizing it was hopeless he ordered Quito burned to the ground. On December 6, 1534 the Spanish reestablished Quito as “San Francisco de Quito” and Rumiñahui was caught and tortured to death the next month.

          Quito at 9,600-ft. is the 2^nd highest capitol in the world and the architectural history of the city is unique in that the Spanish erected their religious buildings atop Incan temple sites. The city was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978 and in 2011 it was designated an “American Cultural Capital” because it has the largest and best preserved historic center in Latin America. In order to best understand the complex beauty of this city built in the foothills of the Andes one should begin with a viewpoint. There are several options.

          Quito’s Teleferico is an amazing aerial tram that ascends to the top of Cruz Loma, from 9,680-ft. to 13,284-ft, in 10 minutes. At the top visitors get views of the 14 peaks of the Avenue of the Volcanoes and a panorama of the city. Services are available at the summit.

El Panecillo, La Virgen de Quito on Panecillo Hill was constructed in 1975. The 135-ft. sculpture is comprised of 7,400 aluminum, bronze and iron panels and depicts a winged Virgin Mary defeating a dragon. A chapel in the base holds daily services at 8 AM and the surrounding paved porch is an outstanding viewpoint.

          City tours begin in Independence Square amidst the neoclassical Carondelet, Presidential Palace, the 1565 Cathedral of Plaza de la Independencia, the Archbishop’s Palace, City Hall and the 1906 Heroes Monument. Visitors may tour the first floor of the Carondelet to view the décor.

          San Francisco was constructed from 1536 until 1605 and is one of the largest religious complexes in the hemisphere. It consists of a temple, chapels, a convent and a museum. Highlights of a visit to the church are the rope belt of St. Francis around the entrance window, the transept and the altarpieces. The museum’s collection exceeds 4000 objects and features works from the Escuela Quiteña, the Quito School of Art and Architecture. Highlights include life-sized statues of the apostles adorned with gilt and glass eyes.

          The market beneath the cathedral is the best in town. It features regional crafts and artifacts. Interestingly the shop contains a historic tunnel, in which wares are displayed, that connected the monastery and the convent.

The Museum of Pre-Columbian Art, the 1671 Casa del Alabado, is beautifully conceived and carried out. The 5000 objects on display date from 4000 BC to 1587 and are housed in a 17^th century colonial building with adobe walls. The collection was amassed by two families and is representative of the Incan cosmological belief that there were 3 worlds, energy, materials and spirituality, lower, middle and upper earth. The artworks are singular.www.precolombino.com

          The Church of the Society of Jesus was constructed between 1605- 1765 and designed after the Jesuit Church in Rome. If you have only time for one site in the city this must be it! The Baroque church is adorned with the greatest amount of gold leaf of any church in the world and it will take your breath away. The entire edifice is a highlight but be certain to see the main dome with a mirrored center and Goribar’s 18^th-century portraits of the 16 prophets. www.ficj.org.ec

          Ecuador’s most important artist, Oswaldo Guayasamin, was a native of Quito. His “indigenous expressionism” reflects his view of human suffering and pain as an outgrowth of the violence in the 20^th-century. The 2002 Capilla del Hombre, the Chapel of Man, is a complex that honors and memorializes Guayasamin through displays of his art and educational programming. Gems of the collection are “The Mutilated,” a work comprised of more than one million pieces that can be arranged in 2,250,000 combinations and “The Avignon Pieta.” Guayasamin died on March 10, 1999 and his ashes are buried in a clay pot, replicating the burial of the ancient people, beneath a tree on the property. www.capilladelhombre.com

          Archeological excavations are testament to the fact that there were agricultural areas in the Amazon area of Ecuador as early as 9000 BC and by 2000 BC agriculture flourished throughout the country. With a history of food stretching back thousands of years it is no surprise that Ecuador is a gourmet’s delight. Each region brings something special to the table, the combination of flavors is unique and the numerous restaurants each have a special twist on the traditional foods. Spearheading the effort to create new recipes and document old ones are the chefs of the Universidad de las Américas. They have published an outstanding cookbook filled with historic and cultural information. www.udla.edu.ec

          Accommodations are abundant in and around Quito for all budgets. Visitors should select their lodging based on location and services. A great choice for me was the NU House Hotel, a boutique hotel in the heart of La Mariscal, the entertainment district. The area, nicknamed “La Zona,” was lively at night and was within close proximity to sites and attractions during the day. www.quito.com.ec

          The Pan American Highway, a system of roads that runs 29,800-miles from Prudhoe Bay, Alaska to Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argentina, is the longest in the world. The idea for the road was put forth at the Fifth International Conference of American States in 1923 but the proposal stalled until the 1930s. It was completed in 1963.

           The Ecuador portion, "Troncal de la Sierra," is the country’s major highway and is designated E-35. Unlike the coastal routes in some other South American countries Ecuador’s road is primarily inland and links many of the main cities and villages. There are day trips from Quito or you can head south and drive to Cuenca. Many visitors opt to fly, if your time is limited this is the best choice, but the drive will give you a real taste of the country. It should be noted that a segment of the highway is a toll road.

          Otavalo is 60-miles north of Quito and is the site of one of the most wonderful indigenous market in Ecuador. The market predates the Incas and the Otavaleños sell their handcrafted goods daily in the square with an especially large market on Saturdays. This is a great place to purchase souvenirs and take photos of the Otavaleños in traditional garb.

          After experiencing the market the next stop is Peguche, a village famous for textile weaving and making of traditional instruments. Several touring musical groups make their home here and there is a factory of musical instruments that is accessible with an organized tour.

          Spain granted huge estates to the important families in Ecuador during the colonial period. These families instituted a land ownership system in which the “hacienda” provided housing and food to the native people in return for their labor. When the system was dismantled many families kept some land and the main house and now offer these historic buildings to travelers as fine lodgings and gourmet dining establishments.

          La Hosteria Hacienda Pinsaqui was originally built in 1790 and, after an earthquake in 1867, lovingly reconstructed. There are 30 suites, each one different but all with luxurious amenities and antique furnishings. Simone Bolivar stayed there, in Suite #1, on his trips during the war for independence and much of the room remains original.

          The 300-year old historic garden blooms all year and includes the remains of a watchtower. Pinsaqui, “the house between the rivers,” was a 16,000-acre estate and from the 20-ft tower the owner could watch his fields.

The hacienda offers a full range of outdoor activities including horseback riding and theraputic massage, and the on-site restaurant presents some of the finest cuisine in the country. A stay in La Hosteria Hacienda Pinsaqui is an unforgettable and affordable experience at $139.00 per night for two. www.haciendappinsaqui.com

          The French Academy of Sciences launched the French Geodosic Mission, in 1735, to determine whether or not the Earth was a perfect sphere or bulged at the center. One team went to Lapland and the other team was sent to the Viceroyalty of Peru. Legend says that the name Ecuador was a result of this expedition because the party grew tired of writing Viceroyalty of Peru and referred to the area as Ecuador because of its position on the equator, the imaginary that separates the northern and southern hemispheres. Ecuador was chosen because other areas on the equator were less accessible. Their measurements are the foundation of the current metric system.

          There are two areas that commemorate the mission and the equatorial line. The more elaborate of the two, the Middle of the World Monument, Mitad del Mundo, is actually misplaced. The monument consists of a walkway lined with busts of the expedition members leading to a100-ft. stone trapezoid crowned with a brass globe replicating the Earth’s position.

          A multi-level ethnological museum is inside the monument and it provides a wonderful overview of the regions and cultures of the country. There are several dioramas devoted to the 2 distinct cultures of Afro-Ecuadorians.

          Approximately 650-ft south of the Mitad del Mundo is the Museo Intinan located by GPS on the Equatorial Line of latitude zero degrees zero minutes and zero seconds. The complex is a museum that features Ecuadorian culture and crafts as well as providing photo ops with one foot in each hemisphere. On a guided tour visitors learn that all the constellations are visible here, day and night are always equal and you can participate in scientific experiments.

          An interesting part of the tour is a visit to the area that illustrates the lifestyle of people in the Amazon. Several real shrunken heads are on view and we are informed that, when shrunken, your head is about the size of your fist. www.museointinan.com.ec

          Close by Intinan is one of Ecuador’s most interesting hotel-restaurants, El Crater. The building is perched on the edge of the only inhabited crater in the world with awesome panoramic views. The restaurant serves international cuisine and it and each of the luxury suites looks out over the geo-botanical preserved region. This is a must do.www.elcrater.com

           Cuenca is 275-miles from Quito but it too is an ancient and historic city laid out in the formal orthogonal plan designated by the Spanish king. It is built on 3 levels, 4 rivers cross the city and it is 2,500-miles above sea level. The city was called Tomebamba when the Incas took it in 1480 and under Spanish rule in 1557 it became Santa Ana de los Rios de Cuenca. On December 1, 1999 the intact historical center of the city was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. www.cuencaecuador.com.ec

          Walking tours of the city begin at the 1806 Casa de la Posados, the oldest house in the city. The house was used as an inn for voyagers who came to trade here. The house has original tiles, shutters and a mural on the wall between the first and second floors.

          San Sebastian Church was constructed using typical Spanish architectural elements. A huge cross outside the church replicates the ones that stood at the entrance to the city to awe the indigenous people. Natives were sometimes punished on the site.

          The Municipal Museum of Modern Art is situated inside the 1880s Temperance House, a colonial rehab facility for the wealthy. The museum features art exhibits and is a prime example of colonial architecture.

Cuenca’s Old and New Cathedrals are both historic wonders. The Old Cathedral, Church of el Sagrario, was built in 1560 using stones from the ruins of Tomebamba in the walls and foundations. This church was only for the Spanish. An artistic highlight is the tableau of life-sized figures of Christ and the Apostles.

           The Cathedral of the Inmaculada Conception, the New Cathedral, was built from 1884-1974 in Renaissance, Gothic and Romanic styles. The cathedral is one of the largest in South America because the bishop wanted a cathedral “as big as his faith.” Two important items in the interior are the gold-flake covered altarpiece and a swarthy skinned Christ figure.

           Ecuador’s most notable export is the Panama hat. Yes it is made in Ecuador and is only referred to as a Panama hat because they were exported for workers constructing the Panama Canal. Some form of the hat dates back to pre-colonial Ecuador. The best place to learn the history of the hat and watch them being handcrafted, is Homero Ortega P. and Hijos. The hats made here are sold worldwide and can cost as much as $3000. Several of the rich and famous have purchased hats here and you too can shop on the premises. www.homeroortega.com

          There are several outstanding day trips from Cuenca that will round out your fantastic Ecuador excursion.

Chordeleg a pre-Incan town 30-miles from Cuenca is the most significant craft center in the region. The plaza, José Maria Vargas, contains a Monument to the Artisans.

          San Bartolome is a historic Spanish town established near the gold mines. It is known as the “guitar village” because musicians visit the craftsmen here to have guitars made. The instruments are beautiful and are crafted for you for $120-$350. Special notice should be taken of the traditional houses with tile and small iron figures on the roofs.

           Piedra de Agua Hot Springs and Thermal Bath located in Banos de Cuenca was carved out of the volcanic stone. This completely unique facility offers thermal-volcanic services including massage caves, mud pool, and underground termas. Clients pay one fee for a day of complete services, a mere $30.00..www.piedradeagua.com.ec

           Cuenca has a full range of accommodations but if you are looking a first class historic place to stay is Hotel Posada del Angel. This restored colonial building is a short walk from the city center and stays include full breakfast and WIFI. www.hostalposadadelangel.com

           We have only scratched Ecuador’s surface and in part two we follow the sun to the middle of the world. In the meantime ponder these facts about the country.

           Ecuador is as close to a climactic paradise as most of us will get. The temperature averages from 55-degrees at night to 70-degrees in the daytime every day of the year, there are no hurricanes or tornadoes, there are many sunny days during the rainy season and fruits, vegetables and flowers grow year round.

           The prices for food and accommodations are very reasonable with the average cost of a gourmet meal for two with wine and dessert at $30.00.

Ecuador’s currency is the American dollar, many people speak English and there is a fair sized American community of retirees. www.InternationalLiving.com/Ecuador

Originally published in 2014