Southern Key, Vicksburg, Mississippi

“The Mississippi Delta begins in the lobby of the Peabody Hotel in Memphis and ends on Catfish Row in Vicksburg.” David Cohn

         Vicksburg sits midway between Memphis and New Orleans, situated on the bluffs above the east bank of the Mississippi River at the mouth of the Yazoo River. Prior to first European contact Native Americans used the river was an important means of transportation and trade and it was these river communities that Hernando De Soto encountered in 1541. De Soto was the first European to document the river but it was the French, 132-years later, who mapped the course of the river. In 1719 the French constructed Fort Saint Pierre and it was destroyed by Native Americans in 1729. In the late 1700s Great Britain was given the land by the Treaty of Paris and atop the same bluffs the Spanish constructed Nogales trading outpost in 1790 and a settlement, Walnut Hills, grew around it. In 1811 Vicksburg was officially founded with pride of place on the Mississippi “The Long River” River.  It would continue on its 80-million year, 2,340-mile, sojourn through every major event in American history. #visitvicksburg

                  Slavery was introduced into the city and it quickly created an economy based on all aspects of human bondage, the slave trade and the marketing of the resultant labor. The early documented enslaved individuals were largely Caribbean Creoles brought by the British into Mississippi. Their heritage and culture impacted on fashion, architecture, cuisine, language, music and culture. An African American Heritage Guided Tour, with 20-sites, is available and relates a holistic story of African American cultural significance. visitvicksburg.com/african-american-heritage-tour

                  Vicksburg has a novel way to present an overview of the city’s history. Thirty-two large murals, painted on the seawall by Robert Dafford, depict significant moments in Vicksburg history. Couple a visit to the seawall with the Old Court House Museum and you are prepared to fully comprehend the story of the city. The museum is chronological and begins with pre-Columbian objects and interprets life in Vicksburg throughout the eras. The museum exhibits one of the largest southern Civil War collections. An historic courtroom is displayed on the second floor. Black craftsmen built the brick courthouse in 1858 and it functioned until 1939.

                  There are 12 historic homes, dating from the 1700s to the Civil War years, in Vicksburg that are open for tours. 

The Greek Revival Martha Vick House was constructed for in 1830. The home has been meticulously restored and furnished.

The oldest structure in Vicksburg is also “the most haunted in Mississippi.” The McRaven House was built over three time periods, 1797, 1836 and 1849. The house functioned as a Confederate hospital and resting place on the Trail of Tears and has been featured on A&E and the Travel Channel.

Anchuca Historic Mansion and Inn was built in the 1840s. The 2-story Federal/Greek Revival mansion is notable for its balcony. It is from there that Jefferson Davis addressed the people in 1869. The architectural elements are not to be missed. There are 10 guestrooms and beautifully appointed public spaces. anchuca.com 

Vicksburg National Military Park memorializes the Battle of Vicksburg and subsequent siege. Lincoln stated that Vicksburg was “the key” to Operation Anaconda, Union control of the Mississippi River and tearing the South in half. The Confederates dug in and Grant’s army dug 15-miles of trenches to encapsulate Pemberton’s forces. The siege lasted 47-days until Pemberton surrendered to Grant on July 4, 1863. The 1,800-acre park has more than 1,400 monuments, rebuilt fortifications, 20-miles of trenches, Vicksburg National Cemetery and the USS Cairo Gunboat and Museum. The USS Cairo has been restored and Civil War items are on exhibit. All of cannons displayed in the park are original but on replicated carriers. Tours should begin in the Visitor Center with a brief film and historical dioramas in a museum area.

The 9-ft Mississippi African-American bronze statue depicts 3 men, 2 members of the US Colored Troops and a field worker. A soldier and a field hand bear a wounded soldier between them. The field hand looks back at the past, one soldier looks toward the future and the wounded soldier represents the blood shed to attain freedom. The 3,000-lb. statue stands on a base of African granite. Nps.gov/vick

When Vicksburg fell to the Union thousands of former slaves made their way to the city self-emancipating and attaching themselves to the US Army in hopes of protection. It is at this point that America’s story changed trajectory and once again Vicksburg was a microcosm of the larger story. The Vicksburg Civil War Museum displays the private collection of Charles Pendleton a tenacious and scholarly collector of all artifacts reflective of the domestic and martial Civil War era experience. The former Corner Drug Store houses millions of objects including slave badges, a replicated slave cabin, letters of secession from each state and the largest collection of antique guns in the state. This museum is not to be missed.

“Music is our witness and our ally. The beat is the confession which recognizes, changes, and conquers time.” James Brown

The Mississippi Delta is considered the birthplace of the blues and the effect on America, and the world, is incalculable. The Blues Trail runs through the city and along Catfish Row. Blue markers point out famous musicians and their contributions and distinctive places. The Catfish Row Museum pays homage to the historic area and the Vicksburg residents through exhibits, music and food. The building was once a club on the “Chitlin Circuit.” 

Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum relates the story of the first place Coca-Cola was bottled in 1894. A replica of the first bottling facility and restored candy store feature Coke memorabilia, souvenirs and a functional soda fountain. biedenharncoca-colamuseum.com

                  The Mulberry Hotel provides perfect accommodations for a deep dive into Vicksburg. This modern hotel has all the amenities plus an art gallery, restaurant and free parking. Located on the riverfront, it is within walking distance to all the downtowns attractions.

                  The Tomato Place is a Caribbean/New Orleans themed “shack” with some of the best food in the area. It is quirky and quintessential Vicksburg. @thetomatoplace

                  Vicksburg is the history of the US as seen through the lens of defining events and cultural diversity. Visit Vicksburg and see things differently.