Lowcountry, Roots, Revels and Reconstruction

“The greatness of man lies in the decision to be stronger than his condition.” A. Camus

                  The Lowcountry is defined geographically as twelve counties in the eastern section of coastal South Carolina, where the mountains’ foothills meet the sandy coastal plains. The area is bordered by the Savannah River, the Atlantic Ocean and the Sea Islands. Much of the Lowcountry averages a mere 270-ft. above sea level and is rife with natural habitats including beaches, maritime forests, Live oak trees, palmettos, salt marshes and hundreds of impressive photo ops. Culturally and historically the region preserves and showcases its “biography” through greater than 1,500 sites, 300 National Historic Landmarks and more than 1,000 restaurants from upscale dining to local gas stations. #DiscoverSC

                  In 1540 Hernando de Soto entered what is now SC. On his journey he was met by more than twenty-five sizeable native tribes. Twenty-two years later French explorer Jean Ribault established a colony near Port Royal in Beaufort County and in the Sea Islands permanent settlements were documented as early as the 1690s. In 1711 the City of Beaufort was the second city founded in South Carolina. Fort Moultrie’s fortifications were constructed on Sullivan’s Island in 1776, using palmetto tree logs, to protect Charleston from British attack. An attack by the British Navy took place in June of 1776. British cannonballs bounced off the palmetto logs resulting in a patriot victory. The palmetto tree became a symbol, as depicted on the state flag, for the people’s tenacity, hardiness and resilience.

The Lowcountry’s story of African American heritage is encapsulated within the larger story of US history. The focus of the trail is to trace the scope of events on the black community and the international impact of African American culture, diversity, music and cuisine of the Lowcountry. Their story personifies the values represented by the palmetto with unique cultural additions. 

                  The trans-Atlantic slave trade and the institution of slavery were the backbone of SC’s economy. In 1790 the first census stated that Charleston’s population was 75% enslaved. By 1861 the enslaved population numbered 402,000, 10,000 free blacks and 291,000 whites statewide, accounting for about 30% of the population. A 1740 basic slave code is very harsh and reflects the fears of the white community. The Negro Act explicitly granted permission for owners to kill slaves they deemed rebellious. In 1861 the Battle of Port Royal was fought and in December of that year the Union marched in and found a single white resident remaining. South Carolina had been the wealthiest city in SC and many white owners lived in Beaufort in grandiose townhouses. Upon occupation the Union found 10,000 enslaved people abandoned when their owners fled and these individuals were arguably the first freed slaves of the war.

Beaufort was first visited by Europeans around 1512. The city was built around a fort in 1706 and was wiped out by natives in 1715. From that time on Beaufort has been a witness to extraordinary events. There are 70 sites on the National Register of Historic Places and eateries designed to enhance your Lowcountry experience. Do not miss the 7-acre Henry Chambers Waterfront Park and the marina. beaufortchamber.org

Robert Smalls was born a slave in Beaufort in 1839. His owner, McKee, hired him out in 1851. He worked on the Confederate ship CSS Planter where he learned every job. While the white crew was ashore on May 13, 1862 he loaded the ship with his family, black crewmen and their families. Clad as the captain he sailed through Charleston Harbor, turned the ship over to the Union and received a $1,500 bounty. He was promoted to captain of the Planter in 1863. He served in the State Legislature 1868-74 and the House of Representatives from 1875-1887. He purchased McKee’s former 2-story home and allowed McKee’s destitute widow to move into his mansion. The property was family owned until 1953.

Smalls died in 1915 and is buried in a plot along with family members at the 1811 Tabernacle Baptist Church. Built using enslaved labor, the church, originally a meetinghouse, was acquired by a black congregation in 1863. A tower was added in 1873. The gravesite is accessible as is a memorial bust of Smalls. Harriet Tubman served as a nurse in Beaufort and the church is currently raising funds for a Tubman Memorial to be placed on the grounds. The church remains active but only exterior viewing is available. 

A tour along the circuitous streets reveals architecturally stunning ante-bellum homes and the arsenal that houses the Beaufort History Museum. The second floor has an exhibit on movies, including The Great Santini and Forrest Gump, filmed in Beaufort. Walking and van tours of movie locations are available. 

                  The Greek Revival Maxcy Milton House was constructed on the site of a previous 1740s house in 1810 and remodeled in 1850. It is known as the Secession House because meetings were held from the 1850s about secession. The home’s owner held 42 people in bondage. The home has Ionic and Corinthian columns, 6 marble fireplaces and a second-floor piazza.

                  President Obama established the Reconstruction Era National Monument (RENM) in January of 2017. Beaufort was selected as the site of the monument and visitor center primarily because it was the center of the Port Royal Experiment. The Union’s opening move in Reconstruction was a headquarters for the U.S. Bureau of Refugees, Freedmen and Abandoned Lands in South Carolina, and the location of SC’s first Freedmen’s Bank. It is tasked with fostering commemorating and educating individuals on the Reconstruction Era, 1861-76. The visitor center has displays on the era with an emphasis on the Port Royal Experiment in which the former enslaved were given food, shelter and education. They received land on which they once worked to farm and share profits with the government. Abandoned mansions were sold for taxes and some, like Robert Smalls, were able to purchase them. This is a must visit because it is the sole repository for a composite and cohesive view of the period after the Civil War and the first concentrated Civil Rights efforts. 

                  Southern Living designated Beaufort “The South’s Best Smallest Town.” Once you have visited you will resoundingly agree. I deem the Beaufort Inn the best accommodations in Beaufort based on its location, near the Historic District and all the significant sites, the variety of guestrooms, outstanding amenities and ambiance. Vouchers for Blackstone’s Café may be included and provide guests an opportunity to enjoy a bountiful breakfast. Beaufortinn.com

                 Step into the story. Visit Beaufort. 

Uniquely Massachusetts, Part 2

“Courage--judgment--integrity--dedication--these are the historic qualities of the Bay Colony and the Bay State.”  John Kennedy

                  Massachusetts is filled with natural, cultural and historic marvels worthy of wandering in every season. The humid continental climate ensures four distinct climates with long winters and shorter summers. From the first settlements the economy was driven by the climate. Because the growing season was briefer than average the colonists concentrated on the fur trade, lumber and subsistence farming. From these commonalities settlements began to develop based on their population, belief systems and skills.

                  Springfield began as a settlement on the shore of the Connecticut River in 1636. The Connecticut River quickly emerged as the main traders’ “highway” bearing goods both upstream and downstream. Two rivers fed into the Connecticut creating a river transit intersection that, coupled with the Boston Post Road, made Springfield a transportation hub. In January of 1646 the town hired a blacksmith introducing metal work into the economy. The last years of the 1600s witnessed the onset of the industrial revolution as mills were established along waterways. John Pynchon founded an iron works in 1697. Springfield, from its inception, was a city of creativity, innovation, industry and diversity. 

                  Springfield Arsenal was founded by the Continental Government in 1777 and was designated an armory in 1794. They produced army weapons from muskets to M1 rifles. It closed in 1968. An 1847 armory on the campus of Springfield Technical Community College showcases the world’s largest collection of historic American military firearms.

                  An African American Heritage Trail exemplifies the city’s stance on and involvement with the question of slavery. Because of access to water, rail and road transportation Springfield was a harbor for fugitive slaves. It is estimated that there were as many as 20 underground railroad stops. John Brown moved there in 1846 and it is there that he first met with Frederick Douglass in 1847. The 1850 Fugitive Slave Act caused some of the 250 blacks living there to move to Canada and moved others to become militant in the face of slave hunters. Slavery was abolished in MA in 1791. africanamericanheritagetrailsgf.org

The jewels in the city’s crown are found in downtown Springfield. These five superior museums, arrayed around a quadrangle, feature art, history, science and the Amazing World of Dr. Seuss and Dr. Seuss National Memorial Sculpture Garden. Since 2016 they are Smithsonian affiliated. Each museum has highlights but not to be missed are the world’s largest collection of Indian Cycles and artifacts in the History Museum. The Indian Manufacturing Company was established in Springfield in 1901. The company produced America’s first brand of motorcycle. The Amazing World of Dr. Seuss honors the life and works of Dr. Seuss. Ground floor galleries are dedicated to his books and characters and the 2^nd-floor exhibits his studio and personal items. @springfieldmuseums

               James Naismith invented basketball, while a physical education instructor, at the Springfield YMCA in 1891. His goal was to create a sport that athletes could play indoors in the cold months. Springfield is the home of the Naismith Memorial Basketball Hall of Fame. The museum was established to preserve the history of the game and honor people who have impacted the game and stimulate interest in the sport. More than 400 inductees are in the Hall, there is greater than 40,000 square feet of exhibit space filled with videos, mini-galleries, memorabilia and photographs and The Court of Dreams where visitors can experience the game firsthand. @hoophall

              MGM Springfield is a centrally located 4-star hotel and casino. The public spaces are beautifully appointed and the 240 guestrooms have state-of-the-art technology and deluxe amenities. There are 8 restaurants and a renowned sports bar. @mgmspringfield

                  The Nimpuc lived in the area now Worcester when the first European settlers arrived in 1670s. They established a colony named Quinsigamond Plantation, in 1684 it was renamed Worcester. The colonists were driven out twice before founding a permanent settlement in 1713. In general, the people were always politically minded and took up such causes as abolition and women’s rights.

                  The 1898 Worcester Art Museum is an outstanding small museum that interprets a collection encompassing 50 centuries. Highlights of a tour are the internationally famous 3,000 Japanese print Bancroft Collection and a reconstructed 12^th-century Romanesque chapter house from a French monastery. @worcesterartmuseum 

Salisbury Mansion is Worcester’s only historic house museum. The home was built in 1772 as a house and shop by Stephen Salisbury in High-Style Georgian. The store no longer functioned after 1812 and the mansion became completely a residence with all of the space once used for the store as living quarters. It now reflects the 1830s time period based on historic documents. Family furnishings are displayed throughout the home.

Wachusett Mountain is 2006-ft. high and offers a menu of events for all seasons. A number of festivals are hosted that include vendors, entertainment and food trucks. The 3,000-acre Wachusett Mountain State Reservation encourages taking to the trails to hike or bike for panoramic views. In winter there are 27 trails and 8 lifts. The vertical drop is 1,000-ft. Ski packages, rentals, clinics and lessons are available. Wachusett Mountain Peak’s lift will take you up the mountain for spectacular views. @wachusettmtn

Groton began as a trading post. The native Nashaway referred to it as Petapawag, “swampy land.” In 1655 colonists settled there and renamed it The Plantation of Groton. The colonists found the land good for farming and a town was established.

Gibbet Hill Farm and the Gibbet Farm Grill are located in Groton, MA. The Grill is on the cutting edge of the farm-to-table movement and 3-acres of the farm are set aside for the purpose of growing produce for use in the restaurant. The chef creates the menu based on what food is in season. The dishes are fantastic and afford diners the opportunity to experience New England heritage cuisine. Dine in an incredible setting. Reservations are strongly recommended. @gibbethillgrill

Amtrak is ideal for this trip. Travelers get an opportunity to enjoy the passing scenery without the hassle of getting from place to place. Most sites are within walking distance of each other and accommodation and dining options. See something unexpected that takes your breath away! #VisitMA

Southern Key, Vicksburg, Mississippi

“The Mississippi Delta begins in the lobby of the Peabody Hotel in Memphis and ends on Catfish Row in Vicksburg.” David Cohn

         Vicksburg sits midway between Memphis and New Orleans, situated on the bluffs above the east bank of the Mississippi River at the mouth of the Yazoo River. Prior to first European contact Native Americans used the river was an important means of transportation and trade and it was these river communities that Hernando De Soto encountered in 1541. De Soto was the first European to document the river but it was the French, 132-years later, who mapped the course of the river. In 1719 the French constructed Fort Saint Pierre and it was destroyed by Native Americans in 1729. In the late 1700s Great Britain was given the land by the Treaty of Paris and atop the same bluffs the Spanish constructed Nogales trading outpost in 1790 and a settlement, Walnut Hills, grew around it. In 1811 Vicksburg was officially founded with pride of place on the Mississippi “The Long River” River.  It would continue on its 80-million year, 2,340-mile, sojourn through every major event in American history. #visitvicksburg

                  Slavery was introduced into the city and it quickly created an economy based on all aspects of human bondage, the slave trade and the marketing of the resultant labor. The early documented enslaved individuals were largely Caribbean Creoles brought by the British into Mississippi. Their heritage and culture impacted on fashion, architecture, cuisine, language, music and culture. An African American Heritage Guided Tour, with 20-sites, is available and relates a holistic story of African American cultural significance. visitvicksburg.com/african-american-heritage-tour

                  Vicksburg has a novel way to present an overview of the city’s history. Thirty-two large murals, painted on the seawall by Robert Dafford, depict significant moments in Vicksburg history. Couple a visit to the seawall with the Old Court House Museum and you are prepared to fully comprehend the story of the city. The museum is chronological and begins with pre-Columbian objects and interprets life in Vicksburg throughout the eras. The museum exhibits one of the largest southern Civil War collections. An historic courtroom is displayed on the second floor. Black craftsmen built the brick courthouse in 1858 and it functioned until 1939.

                  There are 12 historic homes, dating from the 1700s to the Civil War years, in Vicksburg that are open for tours. 

The Greek Revival Martha Vick House was constructed for in 1830. The home has been meticulously restored and furnished.

The oldest structure in Vicksburg is also “the most haunted in Mississippi.” The McRaven House was built over three time periods, 1797, 1836 and 1849. The house functioned as a Confederate hospital and resting place on the Trail of Tears and has been featured on A&E and the Travel Channel.

Anchuca Historic Mansion and Inn was built in the 1840s. The 2-story Federal/Greek Revival mansion is notable for its balcony. It is from there that Jefferson Davis addressed the people in 1869. The architectural elements are not to be missed. There are 10 guestrooms and beautifully appointed public spaces. anchuca.com 

Vicksburg National Military Park memorializes the Battle of Vicksburg and subsequent siege. Lincoln stated that Vicksburg was “the key” to Operation Anaconda, Union control of the Mississippi River and tearing the South in half. The Confederates dug in and Grant’s army dug 15-miles of trenches to encapsulate Pemberton’s forces. The siege lasted 47-days until Pemberton surrendered to Grant on July 4, 1863. The 1,800-acre park has more than 1,400 monuments, rebuilt fortifications, 20-miles of trenches, Vicksburg National Cemetery and the USS Cairo Gunboat and Museum. The USS Cairo has been restored and Civil War items are on exhibit. All of cannons displayed in the park are original but on replicated carriers. Tours should begin in the Visitor Center with a brief film and historical dioramas in a museum area.

The 9-ft Mississippi African-American bronze statue depicts 3 men, 2 members of the US Colored Troops and a field worker. A soldier and a field hand bear a wounded soldier between them. The field hand looks back at the past, one soldier looks toward the future and the wounded soldier represents the blood shed to attain freedom. The 3,000-lb. statue stands on a base of African granite. Nps.gov/vick

When Vicksburg fell to the Union thousands of former slaves made their way to the city self-emancipating and attaching themselves to the US Army in hopes of protection. It is at this point that America’s story changed trajectory and once again Vicksburg was a microcosm of the larger story. The Vicksburg Civil War Museum displays the private collection of Charles Pendleton a tenacious and scholarly collector of all artifacts reflective of the domestic and martial Civil War era experience. The former Corner Drug Store houses millions of objects including slave badges, a replicated slave cabin, letters of secession from each state and the largest collection of antique guns in the state. This museum is not to be missed.

“Music is our witness and our ally. The beat is the confession which recognizes, changes, and conquers time.” James Brown

The Mississippi Delta is considered the birthplace of the blues and the effect on America, and the world, is incalculable. The Blues Trail runs through the city and along Catfish Row. Blue markers point out famous musicians and their contributions and distinctive places. The Catfish Row Museum pays homage to the historic area and the Vicksburg residents through exhibits, music and food. The building was once a club on the “Chitlin Circuit.” 

Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum relates the story of the first place Coca-Cola was bottled in 1894. A replica of the first bottling facility and restored candy store feature Coke memorabilia, souvenirs and a functional soda fountain. biedenharncoca-colamuseum.com

                  The Mulberry Hotel provides perfect accommodations for a deep dive into Vicksburg. This modern hotel has all the amenities plus an art gallery, restaurant and free parking. Located on the riverfront, it is within walking distance to all the downtowns attractions.

                  The Tomato Place is a Caribbean/New Orleans themed “shack” with some of the best food in the area. It is quirky and quintessential Vicksburg. @thetomatoplace

                  Vicksburg is the history of the US as seen through the lens of defining events and cultural diversity. Visit Vicksburg and see things differently.