Wednesday, March 9, 2022

Norfolk, Virginia, Home of the Brave

Native Americans inhabited the Norfolk region, in a settlement known as Skicoak, for thousands of years prior to the establishment of a European colony in 1636 and in 1682 Nicholas Wise sold 50 acres of riverfront property to the Virginia General Assembly to found Norfolk. Fifty years later it was the largest town in the colony. During the American Revolution the busy port, shipbuilding industry and transportation of goods made Norfolk a prime target for a British attack and on January 1, 1776 they destroyed two-thirds of the city. Citizens torched what remained to prevent confiscation by the British. The city was rapidly rebuilt and again established prominence as a port linking transportation between North and South www.visitnorfolk.com                 

Norfolk’s fortunes turned in 1855 when the Benjamin Franklin steamed into the harbor bringing with it Yellow Fever. By the time the epidemic ended 33% of the population was dead.  Six years later Virginia seceded from the Union with the political agreement of Norfolk. The battle between the ironclads, the Monitor and the Merrimac, took place in the harbor in 1862 and in that same year Mayor Lamb surrendered Norfolk to the Union. It remained occupied until 1870.

In 1917 474-acres were purchased at Sewell’s Point by the Secretary of the Navy for the establishment of a naval base. An air station was added and eventually the two facilities combined to become Naval Station Norfolk, the world’s largest naval station. Naval Base Station boat cruises are available. Reservations are recommended. https://www.navalbasecruises.com

Norfolk has developed a series of thematic, self-guided trails that make a comprehensive tour of the city manageable. Routes are designed around areas of interest, historic venues, sightseeing and activities. 

The Cannonball Trail offers 400 years of history and provides an excellent orientation. Begin with an overview in the Norfolk History Museum at the 1794 Willoughby-Baylor House. This free museum relates the city’s stories through use of artifacts, photographs and text. 





In 1862 the city was formally surrendered in Norfolk City Courthouse, now the MacArthur Memorial 3 building complex. This free museum’s highlights include MacArthur’s iconic hat, pipe, glasses and artworks and photographs. The memorial’s other areas include a library, archives and theater. The museum contains nine chronological galleries featuring significant periods of his life. The Rotunda contains the tomb of Douglas MacArthur and his wife. www.macarthurmemorial.org


Civil War Trails driving tour showcases 24 sites citywide with a focus on Fort Norfolk and the 1862 place, Ocean View, where President Lincoln landed to visit McClellan and remained to organize a military operation to take Norfolk. Fort Norfolk, the final extant harbor-front fort, was seized by the Confederates in 1861 and retaken by the Union in 1862. 

Some of the locations on the trails are listed as sites on more than one route and figure in numerous historic events. Waterways to Freedom intersects with the self-guided Underground Railroad Journey from Hampton Roads tour and the Trail of Honor. The story interpreted by these trails dates from the time of the colonists when slaves were imported from Africa into the region and were active members in the maritime trades. Slaves would go to Higgins’ and Wrights’ Wharves and clandestinely board ships traveling north.

On November 7, 1775 Lord Dunmore, Royal Governor of Virginia, issued a proclamation from a British warship, anchored near Norfolk, emancipating any slaves and indentured servants who would take up arms for the British Empire. Hundreds fled to the British lines and Dunmore named them the “Ethiopian Regiment”. Initially they defeated the patriots but evacuated the area in August 1776 for New York.

Prior to the Civil War Norfolk was a resale hub for slaves. Traders collected slaves here from the North and sold them deeper South. It is estimated that 21,000 enslaved individuals, including Solomon Northrup, were sent to New Orleans. 

A highlight of the Trail of Honor is the 1920 West Point Monument in the Elmwood Cemetery. It is dedicated to the African American veterans of the Civil and the Spanish American Wars. A life-sized bronze statue of William Carney crowns the monument. Born enslaved in Norfolk, he was the first African American to be awarded the Medal of Honor and is one of more than 100 men interred there. 





Nauticus, a complex featuring a thematic museum and science center is located adjacent to the Battleship Wisconsin, one of the navy’s biggest and final battleships built. The first half of the free museum relates 246-years of naval history through displays with detailed ships’ models, artwork, dioramas and artifacts. The complete story of the Ethiopian Regiment is showcased. The second portion of the museum has five sections and focuses on Vietnam with emphasis on the 1968 Tet Offensive. nauticus.org

Guided and self-guided tours of the 887-ft. Battleship Wisconsin are available. Visitors can follow the footsteps of Ensign Alan Dean, the first African American officer (1951- 53) to serve onboard the vessel, through the officers’ quarters, chapel, upper levels and sleeping quarters. The battleship was active from WWII until the Persian Gulf War in the 1990s.

Art is infused into the culture of Norfolk in a variety of ways. The Chrysler Museum of Art presents 5,000 years of artistic endeavors in 50 galleries and more than 30,000 artworks.  The Chrysler Family holds the largest collection of free glass in the world and the adjacent Perry Glass Studio offers tours, demonstrations and the history of the art of glassmaking.


The perfect accommodation for a visit to Norfolk is the Glass Light Hotel and Gallery. The hotel is within a 5-minute walk of the major attractions, shopping and dining. The historic 1912 structure is now a boutique hotel with fitness facilities, lobby bar, dining options and deluxe bedding, room amenities and unique decor. The hotel has a 2-story gallery displaying glass sculptures by renowned artists. www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/orfav-glass-light-hotel-and-gallery

A Mermaid Trail weaves throughout Norfolk and combines the city’s main themes, art, sustainability, fanciful tales and an endurable link to the country’s maritime history. Follow in their wake for a wonderful experience.



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