Western New York’s fabled corridor: Buffalo to Niagara (Part One)

The Buffalo-Niagara Corridor in Western New York has the distinction of having always been both a permanent sanctuary and a reliable embarkation point. Geography, accessibility to the Falls and Lake Erie and proximity to Canada contribute to the region’s international flavor, liberal atmosphere, unique heritage and Underground Railroad (UGRR) history. 

Buffalo and Niagara are separated by 21 miles and 12,000 years. Human habitation is believed to have started during the Paleo-Indian period with nomadic bands. The region’s first explorer, Champlain, travelled along the eastern shore of the Niagara River, and was met by sophisticated Iroquoian tribes living in palisaded villages. (www.visitbuffaloniagara.com)

The Michigan Street African-American Heritage Corridor interprets the complex history of African-Americans in the city through historic sites, historical plaques, restaurants and entertainment venues. Thematically, the corridor highlights the abolitionist and civil rights eras up to and including emerging cultural and artistic endeavors. Located at the northern gateway is the Freedom Wall Mural, which features 28 portraits of African-American leaders created by four local artists. (www.michiganstreetbuffalo.org)

Michigan Street Baptist Church, founded in 1837, erected a permanent structure in 1845. It was the first Baptist church in the city built by and for Blacks. Anti-slavery meetings were held there and escaped slaves were hidden in the basement. On many occasions it was the final station on the UGRR before crossing the Niagara River to Canada. In 1974, the church was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. Tours can be booked online. (www.michiganstreetbaptistchurch.org)

                                         

In 1892, the Rev. Dr. J. Edward Nash became pastor of the Michigan Street Baptist Church, led his flock for 61-years, and from his two-family home worked to establish branches of the NAACP and Urban League. 

The family lived there from 1925 to 1987. After his death in 1957, his wife left his papers and belongings untouched. Today, the house provides an unprecedented look into his life and the era. Highlights of a tour include the sewing room, the bedrooms and Nash’s fully outfitted office. (www.nashhousemuseum.org)

The Colored Musicians Club, the sole extant African-American club of its type, was founded in 1917 and incorporated on May 14, 1935. 

Local 533 was formed because the all-White American Federation of Musicians would not admit African-Americans. The musicians ate, hung out and rehearsed here.

                               

At one time, it held a speakeasy with a buzzer and a trapdoor in the kitchen leading outside. The bar was built by the musicians. Today, the club preserves the jazz legacy with free jazz lessons for young people and a weekly jam session. 

Most of the jazz greats played here including Miles Davis, Dizzy Gillespie, and Duke Ellington. Their stories and that of many others are related in the ground floor museum. Tours begin with an 8-minute video and proceed through a series of colorful exhibits. (www.cmctheclub.com)

Buffalo was the western terminus of the Erie Canal when completed in 1825. The completion of the canal set off a chain of events that would lead to the city’s industrial prominence. This story is engagingly told aboard a 90-minute narrated Spirit of Buffalo Harbor Cruise. Along with water views guests are treated to Elevator Alley, the largest collection of grain elevators in the world. Tours depart from canal side. (www.buffaloharborcruises.com)

                                              

Henry Hotel Urban Resort & Conference Center is an 88-room, full-service hotel designed by Henry Hobson Richardson in the 1870s as the Buffalo State Asylum for the Insane. It closed in 1974 and reopened as a hotel after a $70 million renovation. 

The hotel’s 500,000-sq.-ft. interior offers 16’ ceilings, 15’ wide corridors and luxurious accommodations incorporating cutting edge technology. There are art-filled nooks and crannies, a ballroom, and the Lounge at Hotel Henry and 100 Acres: The Kitchens at Hotel Henry. (www.hotelhenry.com)

Toutant is a must for a unique mix of Southern Louisiana and New York regional cuisine. Menu items are crafted onsite. Reservations are highly recommended. (www.toutantbuffalo.com)

Frank & Teressa Bellissimo’s Anchor Bar is the premiere location on the 12-site Buffalo Wing Trail and is the place where the meaty “Buffalo Wing” was created. The original bar opened in 1935, and in the second location in 1964, the dish made its first appearance.

                                     

                                                       

Teressa first made the wings for a group of her son’s friends who wanted a late-night snack that would not hamper their conversation. The Bellissimos liked to entertain their guests by singing and this morphed into live jazz performances. 

One thousand pounds of wings are served daily, but there are more than 100 items on the menu so don’t limit yourself. Diners choose from their award-winning sauces that are also available for purchase. The food is outstanding, the atmosphere is welcoming, and the service is exemplary. (www.anchorbar.com)

In 1632, Samuel de Champlain was the first European explorer to map Niagara Falls and in 1678, Father Louis Hennepin documented the area more fully. The Niagara River connects Lakes Erie and Ontario and quickly became key to the fur trade. After the Revolutionary War, it was designated a boundary between British and American holdings. Before the Civil War, it became freedom seekers’ boundary between enslavement and freedom.

                                         

The Niagara Falls Underground Railroad Heritage Center opened this year to preserve and present the personal stories and history of the Underground Railroad in Niagara Falls. 

The museum, situated adjacent to the Amtrak Station inside an 1863 US Custom House, is fully interactive and totally immersive. 

Highlights of the self-guided tour are visits, (circa 1850) to the Cataract House Hotel where the wait staff clandestinely served as UGRR agents and walking across a replicated portion of the bridge to freedom in Canada. (www.niagarafallsundergroundrailroad.org)

An ADA accessible free shuttle equipped with wifi and bike racks is available from May-Oct. It stops at or near 17 attractions and stops are clearly marked. (www.discoverniagara.org)

Historic Hampton, Virginia

At the end of August in 1619 the White Lion landed at Old Point Comfort, in what is now Hampton, Virginia, and exchanged “20 and odd negroes” for food and supplies. These Angolan captives would establish a pattern of enslavement that would inform and define the history of the nation and the globe. The First Landing, in conjunction with the overall African American history of Hampton, will be commemorated in 2019 with a provocative and unique series of events and activities in addition to the ongoing exhibits and tours including the annual African Landing Day Commemoration. www.HamptonVA2019.com

Hampton, Virginia, the oldest continuously occupied English settlement in the United States, was the landing site of colonists bound for Jamestown. They were met by the Kecoughtan Indians whose village stood on several thousand acres on the Hampton River. The settlers would continue the 23-miles to Jamestown because the water was better there. www.project1619.org  

In 1619 Kecoughtan was renamed Elizabeth City and it became the leading colonial port with all merchant ships being required to stop there to pay customs fees. In 1691 the town was officially laid out and in 1706 it became Hampton. The city should also be recognized for establishing, through trade, an international society and financial market.

Fort Monroe National Monument is situated on Old Point Comfort, often regarded as the place where slavery began and ended. On May 23, 1861 three fugitive slaves, Shepard Mallory, Frank Baker, and James Townsend fled the Confederacy and sought asylum at the Union-held fort. Major General Benjamin F. Butler refused to return them invoking the argument that they were contraband of war and could be seized to keep them from aiding the southern war effort. Fort Monroe became known as Freedom’s Fortress and thousands of the enslaved came. Tours of the fort include the cell in which Jefferson Davis was imprisoned and an exhibit on Poe’s service there. On November 1, 2011

President Barack Obama designated Fort Monroe a National Monument. www.visitfortmonroe.com
Two contraband camps were founded, Camp Hamilton (Slabtown) and the Grand Contraband Camp. Mary Peake came to teach the freedmen and held classes beneath a huge oak tree. This is considered the origin of Hampton University. In 1863 the Emancipation Proclamation was read there and it became known as the Emancipation Oak. It is ninety-eight feet in diameter and is designated one of the "Ten Great Trees of the World". www.hamptonu.edu
           

Hampton University offers a 13-site self-guided walking tour. The 1886 Italian Romanesque Revival Memorial Chapel was constructed by the students with large wooden doors and carved faces around the ceiling representing African American and Native American students. The Harvey Library features 2 large murals by John Biggers,  “House of the Turtle” and Tree House.
           

The 1868 Hampton University Museum is the oldest African American museum in the country. The collection includes more than 9000 items with a spectacular number of Native American objects, W. O. Tanner’s “The Banjo Lesson” and the 400-piece William H. Sheppard Collection of African Art. The museum began as a “curiosity room” created by founder General Samuel Chapman Armstrong for the students.

For a quick and comprehensive overview the 10-galleries of the Hampton History Museum are a best bet. Visitors tour chronologically beginning with the native presence. Exhibits include dioramas, artifacts and interactive displays. Of particular note are the exhibits on Blackbeard and the Burning of Hampton. www.hamptonhistorymuseum.org

Aberdeen Gardens Historic District and Museum interprets the story of the 1934 African American community that was part of the New Deal. The double brick houses rented for $11-$15 monthly and had  indoor plumbing and heating, hardwood floors, a garage and a chicken coop. Eleanor Roosevelt visited in 1938. www.aberdeengardens.org

The narrated Miss Hampton II Harbor Tour provides great views of the world’s largest naval installation, Hampton University and a stop at Fort Wool. www.misshamptoncruises.com

Hampton offers tours of sites connected with the land, the sea and man’s quest for flight. The city is NASA Langley Research Center’s first home. It was established in 1917 to solve military and commercial aircraft problems. The Mercury astronauts trained there and the  lunar lander was tested there. This was also where the women of  Hidden Figures worked and includes the office of Katherine Johnson and the 2015, 37,000-sq.ft., Katherine Johnson Research Facility. www.vasc.org

The Virginia Air and Space Center, NASA Langley’s official visitor center, features more than 100 interactive exhibits, a 3-D IMAX Theater, a 3-billion-year-old moon rock, an inflatable lunar habitat and more than 30 historic aircraft. 'When the Computer Wore a Skirt: NASA's Human Computers' exhibit relates the history and personalities of the women portrayed in the  film Hidden Figures.
The  space station is the 3rd most visible space object. Go to www.spotthestation.nasa.gov to track the station and www.isstracker.com for real time tracking.

The 1920 Hampton Carousel has been restored and is one of 70 wooden ones left in the US. It showcases 42 oil paintings, 30 mirrors, 48 handcarved horses and  2 chariots. A ride is a great photo op. www.hamptoncarousel.com

Don’t leave the area without visiting The Vanguard Brewpub and Distillery and Mango Mangeaux. The brewpub , housed in a 6,300-sq. ft. historic armory, serves great food and offers live entertainment and a tasting room. www.thevanguard757.com

Mango Mangeaux, as seen on Shark Tank, provides a dining experience that deftly combines Neosoul, French and Creole cuisine. www.mangomangeaux.com

The Enchanted Hills of New York State

By Kathleen Walls & Renée Gordon

New York’s Cattaraugus County is known as the Enchanted Mountains for good reason. It may be a lesser known destination but there is so much to see and do among those picturesque mountains you will be enchanted. 

The county is the proverbial melting pot but there are two unique cultures that can best be experienced in this region. You can follow the Amish Trail, on a self-drive or personalized guided tour, and immerse yourself in a simpler way of life as you meander along county roads. The trail features more than 125 family operated venues, identified by latitude and longitude instead of address, and designated with a special sign. Visitors can purchase an amazing array of handcrafted items including quilts, toys, candy, baked goods and furnishings, dine on farm fresh meals or simply take in the passing bucolic scenery. Complete information, including maps, guides and business listings, are available at the sites and online. www.AmishTrail.com/tour

New York has also established two Amish Geo Trails (NYAGT). Each trail has 12 caches as well as a trackable Geo Coin. A magnetic geo-button is earned for locating individual caches and the lucky explorers who find 10 of the caches will be gifted a NY Amish Geo Trail Coin. www.AmishTrail.com/Geotrail

The earliest culture fostered within these mountains remains as serene and steadfast as the hills themselves.  The sovereign Seneca Nation has lived here for centuries and probably encountered the first Europeans in the 1500s. They call themselves the Onöndowa’ga:’, consist of eight clans, Turtle, Bear, Wolf, Beaver, Snipe, Heron, Deer and Hawk, and were the largest of the nations in the confederacy. They are the “Keepers of the Western Door”, because they were the westernmost of the nations and controlled the land any foreigner had to cross to gain access to the confederacy entering from this direction.

The Great Confederacy was formed in the late 1500s and is credited with being the oldest participatory democracy in the United States. The Sacred Tree of Peace, the Iroquois Constitution, was created to establish peace and promote justice, morality and the rule of civil authority. Decisions made under The Great Law of Peace required a council mandate based on one vote per tribe and absolute agreement. Concepts in the Iroquois Constitution were used as a model for the US Constitution. 

Just as the Seneca functioned as gatekeepers for the Confederacy they have maintained that role and now serve as guardians of their culture. In September of this year the Deyonöhsagwë:de’ Cultural Center campus opened as a 33,000-sq. ft., state-of-the-art museum, cultural center, educational facility, Seneca-Iroquois Living Cultural Village and performance space. Visitors will be able to eat traditional cuisine and purchase native crafts as well as view the more than 85,000 artifacts on display. Tours of the 10 exhibit galleries begin with the traditional welcoming ceremony and cleansing of one’s aura.  www.senecamuseum.org

A guiding principle in the Seneca belief system is that we are all spiritual beings living an earthly existence. Our spirits are renewed in the Seneca-Iroquois Museum and our earthly desires can be fulfilled in the nearby Seneca Alleghany Casino and Resort, whether you are a high roller or a lover of leisure and luxury. Architecturally the resort focuses on the symbols and beliefs of the Seneca culture through use of natural materials, iconic images and indigenous art. 

The full-service resort is the winner of numerous honors including Best Hotel Rooms,  Best Spa and the AAA Four Diamond designation annually for nine years. Visitors can choose from 413 luxury accommodations with panoramic views of the cultural center and surrounding area, world-class dining venues, live entertainment and a plethora of award-winning gaming options. The spa and salon offer a complete menu of services and feature themed and specialized treatments. www.senecaalleganycasino.com

Shoppers will be enchanted by the Salamanca Antique Mall. The mall traces its history to 1982, when Bill Guche and Peter Kolokouris began at a plaza in Farmington, NY. As that mall's popularity grew, Peter opened another antique plaza at a mall he owned in Salamanca, NY. The mall grew until today it has over 1000 dealers and is managed by Peter's son, Demitri. 

It's a treasure trove. The mall has many of the traditional booths filled with larger items but what is unique are the locked glass cases filled with jewelry and smaller valuable objects. So many that you can easily get lost. Eleni Bechakas, the mall manager, offered me a pencil and pad to write the location of my finds. When you find something you want, you write the clearly marked location number. When you finish, just go to the deck and the cashier calls a friendly worker who unlocks the case and takes out your treasure.  www.salamancamallantiques.com

Nature lovers will fall in love with the Allegany State Park. It's the largest in New Your and third largest in the nation. Allegany State park is an all-season park. In summer you can enjoy hiking and multi-use trails. There is a large lake for water sports including kayaking, canoeing and paddle boarding. In winter it transforms into a ski and snow fun resort. 

The park is divided into two sections, The Red House Area and the Quaker Run Area. Both have cabins and camping sites. Altogether there are 424 campsites, 375 cabins. There's even a covered bridge, a Stone Tower, a small museum and much more. There's a Tudor style administration building built by the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) as are most of the cabins. You can dine at the cute restaurant in the park on those days you don't want to venture far. www.stateparks.com/allegany_state_park_in_new_york.html 

There's seasonal fun at Pumpkinville.

Ellicottville Rock and Roll Weekend will take you back to the fabulous fifties with antique cars and classic rock and Roll. Even Elvis makes an appearance in the person of Terry Buchwald. Terry Buchwald was inducted into the Buffalo Music Awards Hall of Achievement , awarded Night-Life Life Time Achievement Award from the Buffalo Night-Life Music and Club Awards and others. He is one of the nation’s top Elvis impersonators however he considers his show "a tribute" rather than an impersonation. 

The other part of the weekend is filled with  hot cars. I saw vehicles ranging from early Fords to pristine cars from the 60s. Judging by the many Mustangs I saw, they seem to be the most popular classics.

There are many shops, eateries, a winery and the town museum to add to the fun. It's dog friendly so you can bring your four legged friends. www.ellicottvilleny.com