San Antonio’s La Villita

“Everyone you meet, They're jamming in the street, All night long!’      L. Ritchie

                  There are few places in the United States that better encapsulate hundreds of years of history, culture and a unique melding of lifestyles than San Antonio, Texas. When explorers arrived there was already an established Coahuiltecan Indian village in what they called Yanaguana, “Land of the Spirit Waters.” The Spanish established San Antonio in 1722. The first nonindigenous rude homes, jacales, were built in the center of San Antonio by families of soldiers stationed at San Antonio de Béxar Presidio. The settlement, LaVillita, appears in documents as early as 1792. The current Downtown plan for the original Spanish city continues to be followed today. #Visitsanantonio

Gradually East Texans migrated to the area and by 1819 La Villita, the little village, was home to a growing residential presence. A flood in 1819 led to the reconstruction of more permanent structures in brick and stone. The local population was augmented by the newly arrived European immigrants, German, French, Spanish, Mexicans, Swiss, Americans and Blacks by the middle of the 1800s. In the first maps La Villita was larger than it is presently. Currently the 7-acre area is bordered by the San Antonio River, South Alamo Streets, Presa and Nueva Streets, a short walk from the Alamo.

San Antonio was always of significant geographical importance because of its location and later as the nexus of the Camino Real, the Royal Road. The portion of road known as El Camino Real de los Tejas linked Santiago de la Monclova in Mexico to Los Adaes, now in Louisiana. It began as a Native American trail before the arrival of documented traveler, explorer Alonso de León in 1689. The road ran through a part of Texas and linked the missions on its route. The road was even more important from pre-colonial days onward, it brought explorers from the south into the area and later settlers and self-emancipating blacks from the north as travel patterns changed. It was the road taken by Bowie, Crockett and many other Alamo defenders. #visitsanantonio

It is currently deemed the hemisphere’s oldest and longest, 2,500-miles, historical route. The DAR placed 128 granite markers, 5-miles apart, in Texas along the Camino Real in 1918 replacing the wooden markers used in 1915. Nine of the original pink granite markers can still be seen in their original locations. El Camino Real de los Tejas was designated a National Historic Trail in 2004.

The first Spanish Texas land grant was awarded for the founding of a mission. This 1716 grant was followed by others including parcels of land in San Antonio itself and Mission San Antonio de Valero. Don Antonio Martinez received a grant in 1797 on the southern side of the river in what is now La Villita. His land was used for cattle and his home was just off the Camino Real. 

La Villita fell into disrepair and by the 1930s the area was shabby and weed-filled. The houses, though in various stages of disrepair, remained. Mayor Maury Maverick undertook the task of restoring the area highlighting its cultural heritage and architecture. Restored it has become a showcase for eclectic restaurants, craft stores, boutiques, galleries and historic structures.

In 1972 The National Register of Historic Places inscribed La Villita Historic District on the list. The district consists of twenty-seven structures dating from the 19^th-century. The buildings are superior examples of vernacular architecture beginning with the Mexican period to Early Texian and German architectural styles. Careful observation as you wind through the are reveals a detailed history of Southwestern architecture and building techniques. Brochures are available for those wishing to take a walking tour of La Villita. The brochures provide information on individual sites, photographs and a detailed map. All of the buildings are significant but there are a number of houses of particular note These edifices have either a unique history or feature exemplary construction techniques.

Do not miss the Cos House, possibly the oldest in the area. It is not named after its original owner but after Mexican General Perfecto de Cos. On December 9, 1935 he signed the Articles of Capitulation, recognizing the defeat of the Mexican Army by the Texians at Bexar. Sixty days later General Santa Anna erected a post abutting La Villita, the site chosen by the Mexicans from which to fire upon the Alamo during the siege.

The Little Church of La Villita’s origins date from 1846 when Reverend J. Vilbiss purchased land across the street and placed a bell to indicate that this was a site for worship. He was unable to erect a church then but in 1879 a Gothic Revival Episcopal Church was built. The lancet-shaped casement windows are of particular note.

Originally owned by the Curbier Family, Rafael Herrera purchased the land on which a house sits in 1854. In 1897 the plot became the property of Thomas Dechman and P. Degnan who had a coffee and spice mill there until 1928. The Herrera/San Martin House was part of the restoration and was named after Don José de San Martín, a South American Freedom Fighter. A feature of the house is a panel located adjacent to the door that displays an example of the construction style used in building the house.

The Tejeda, or Caxias, House is one of the oldest in the district. The land was purchased by the Tejeda Family in 1855 and a city map confirms the existence of a house on the property in the 1870s. There is evidence that the house was erected by Hispanic craftsmen and it is one of only three structures remaining that were constructed using adobe bricks. In contrast the earlier John Bowen 1851 property was built using blocks of caliche. 

The centerpiece of the District, Plaza Juarez, was constructed during the restoration and was named in honor of Benito Juarez, a loyal patriot and the 26^th president of Mexico. This is the place to really immerse yourself in the culture. There are more than 275 events on the plaza annually including Texas’ Independence from Mexico celebration. “A Night in Old San Antonio,” a signature event, has grown from one-day to four with 15-themed areas. Dates for 2024 are April 23 -26. Party like it’s 1829.

  

John Brown's Mirror

“Between the North and the South stands the gallows of John Brown.”   Victor Hugo

                  John Brown is most widely recognized as a dedicated abolitionist and the organizer and leader of the raid on Harper’s Ferry, considered by many the opening volley of the Civil War. It is said that “one man’s terrorist is another man’s freedom fighter” and that concept has led to a variety of opinions on aspects of his life’s work and actions. Much is debatable but certain facts remain indisputable. #JohnBrown

                  Brown was born in Torrington, Connecticut in May of 1800 into a strict Calvinist family. At the age of 12 he was charged with driving a herd of cows to Michigan. He stayed with a man and his young slave boy and was appalled when the man openly used an iron shovel to brutally beat the boy. Brown was so moved that he spoke of the incident for the remainder of his life. On November 7, 1837 publisher Elijah Lovejoy, known for his antislavery newspaper, was shot to death by a throng of men protesting his stance. At his funeral service Brown swore he would end slavery. .org

                  Harper’s Ferry was chosen as the site of the insurrection because of its ideal location as the doorway to the South. It was at that time in Virginia, now West Virginia, at the juncture of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers, bordered by Maryland and Virginia and only a few miles from Pennsylvania and the Mason-Dixon Line. 

                  Robert Harper settled there in 1734 and began a ferry service.  George Washington purchased the site from the Harpers in 1796 and established a federal armory and eventually a rifle factory. It was there that on October 16, 1859 Brown led 21 men, 5 blacks and 16 whites on an ill-fated raid. Brown was captured, then tried in Charles Town and on November 2, 1859, after a 45-minute deliberation, was sentenced to death. He was hung on December 2^nd  for treason, murder and leading a slave insurrection. Harper’s Ferry is now a national park and is open year-round. nps.gov/hafe

                  Brown spent much his planning and organizing time in Washington County. On June 30, 1859 he and three of his sons registered in The Washing Hotel on Washington Street in Hagerstown and was given room 6. The hotel was located on the National Road. He signed in as I. Smith, an alias he often used. The hotel burned down in 1879 and was replaced by the Baldwin House. It is currently owned by the University of Maryland. 

                  The. Washington County Regional Library has a collection of primary and facsimile documents in the Maryland Room. The jewel of the collection is the original hotel registry.

                  Chambersburg, PA, not in Washington County, is approximately 60-miles from Hagerstown. Brown would meet abolitionists and other potential allies in a rock quarry for safety and secrecy. On August 16, 1959 he met with Frederick Douglas. Douglas declined to join in the plot. 

                  Brown moved from the hotel to a rental property 5-miles from Harper’s Ferry on July 3^rd. The Kennedy Farm was his last home. The owner, John Brien, died intestate and as the family attempted to settle the estate. The family leased the grounds and cabin to Isaac Smith to house his cattle. The cabin became known as John Brown’s Raid House and the men began to gather to plan and stockpile weapons. Two of John’s daughters joined him there to give the neighbors the appearance of family living there. His “soldiers” stayed inside all day to allay suspicion. After his death some personal papers were found that better explained his plan as well as listed some names of his conspirators. #KennedyFarm

                  

        By the 1940s the farm was less well for wear. The Black Elks purchased 235-acres of the property in order to interpret, preserve and protect Browns legacy. In order to help fund their efforts they began to use a concrete building in the rear as an entertainment space. For the next fifteen years it served as a venue on the Chitlin Circuit. There was space for More than 450 people and the party began at 9 PM after performers played the integrated clubs in nearby DC and Baltimore. Every major black artist came through the farmhouse, Cab, Aretha, Tina, Patti, B. B., Jacksons 5, Marvin, Lena, Smokey, etc. #washingtoncountymd

                  John Brown’s death served as a mirror and a match. He wanted America to see that slavery was an ill that could be cured. Barring that, he wanted to precipitate an armed ideological war with as little bloodshed as possible. The Civil War, begun in April of 1861, resulted in a loss of 620,000 soldiers.