Exclusively Jacksonville, Florida

“For we were born of change.” Barack Obama

                  The Jacksonville region was home to Florida’s Spanish colonial heritage fully 100-years before Jamestown or Plymouth. Ponce de Léon claimed Florida for Spain in 1513 and gave named it La Florida, the land of flowers, because of its beauty. Accompanying him was explorer Juan Garrido, documented as the first African in North America. Pedro Menéndez de Avilés founded what is now the oldest permanent European settlement in the country, St, Augustine, 30-miles from Jacksonville. In 1565 Menéndez, a soldier, was charged with protecting Spain’s land claims and treasure ships against the French Huguenots who had established Fort Caroline in what became Jacksonville Both the French and Spanish had African workers build their fortifications. The indigenous Indian tribes were decimated by the 1700s due to disease, slavery and warfare. @visit_jax

                  The first fugitive slave is documented In October 1687 as an escapee from the Carolinas. So many slaves fled to Florida that in 1733 a royal decree was issued declaring that after four years of service they would be free and the English would not be compensated for their losses. In 1738 a fortified town, Gracia Real de Santa Teresa de Mose, was established for the fugitives, becoming the first legal free Black town in the country, outside St. Augustine. Note that the initial Underground Railroad’s core was in Florida and it ran southward to freedom. In 1600 a Spanish census noted that there were 19 African slaves, the 1860 census stated that 43% of Jacksonville's population was enslaved. Jacksonville contains some of the earliest Black history in the US.

                  Modern Jacksonville is 840-sq. miles and offers 22-miles of beaches, 80,000-acres of urban parks, 40-miles of intercoastal waterways, excellent accommodations, world class cultural institutions and events and more than the average number of sunny days. But, exclusive to Jacksonville, is the deft blend of cultures and lifestyles of those whose roots reach back in time to create uniquely vibrant experiences. In order to better understand the city’s diversity visitors should seek out museums, restaurants and sites where we can learn about heritage and remember, these experiences are only in Jacksonville.

                  I highly recommend that you begin with an overview guided tour, Explore Jax Core, with Yolanda Copeland. The basic, open-air cart tour, is 90-minutes long. Tours can be tailored to the individual or group. ExploreJaxCore.com

                  Formerly a plantation, the LaVilla neighborhood was established shortly after the Civil War and became known as “The Harlem of the South,” a thriving entertainment district. The land was originally part of a Spanish land grant and after the Civil War it was leased for 99-years to 43 African American Men.

The Ritz Museum preserves African American heritage through examining the great Floridians. Highlights of the galleries are Bob Hayes shoes, Hayes is the only man to have won both an Olympic Medal and a Super Bowl Ring, and an homage to Augusta Savage the sculptress of the 15-foot “The Harp” sculpture. There is also a stunning animatronic presentation on the writing of “Lift Every Voice and Sing” by James Weldon and Rosamond Johnson. James, a Jacksonville native, penned the lyrics and was a lawyer, author, Venezuelan consul and principal. @ritzjax

Dr. Eartha White lived a legendary life and her accomplishments are displayed in the Eartha White Historical Museum. She established the Clara White Mission, named in honor of her mother, in 1904. The soup kitchen grew into a tubercular hospital, senior center, rehab facility, employment center and veteran housing. She spent her earnings in humanitarian causes. Guided tours include her dining room, bedroom, guestroom and office in which Zora Neale Hurston filed reports. It continues to function. @clarawhitemission

Herban Bee and White Harvest Farms were created to foster sustainable farming, entrepreneurship and urban opportunity. The Herban Bee produces artisanal and herbal honey, soaps and candles. @theherbanbee @whitehousefarms

The Norman Studios Silent Film Museum, a National Historic Landmark, is the sole complete complex in the country. The museum protects and preserves the stories of the silent film industry and the earliest history of African Americans in film. Richard E. Norman’s home and five-structure studio have been preserved. Norman, who was white, began producing positive “race films,” in response to the denigrating images in “Birth of a Nation.” Tours feature the Production and Film Processing Buildings, Generator Shed, Wardrobe Cottage, Prop Storage Garage, and Set Building. The studio, then Eagle Studios, was founded in 1916. Normanstudios.com

Durkeeville was established during 1930’s segregation. It was the site of the first US WPA projects in 1936. Barrs Field, later Durkee Field was built in 1912 and became home of the Negro League and smaller teams. Hank Aaron, “Cool Papa” Bell, Roy Campanella, Lou Gehrig, Josh Gibson, Bob Hayes, “Judy” Johnson, Buck O’Neil and Leroy “Satchel” Paige and Babe Ruth are displayed in the museum adjacent to the now J. P. Small Memorial Park. They all left a mark here on their march into baseball history. @durkeevillehistory

The largest fine arts museum in NE Florida, Cummer Museum of Art & Gardens, was founded in 1961. The museum’s permanent collection dates from 2100 BCE and showcases American and European artworks and Meissen porcelain and the three Cummer Gardens are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The museum’s Juliette’s Bistro provides creative dishes. @CummerMuseum

                  SurfearNEGRA was founded by Gigi Lucas to infuse sport surfing with gender and cultural diversity. Her mentorship has been responsible for more than 100 girls being sent to surf camp annually. @surfearnegra

                  Within The Jessie Ball duPont Center is “The Jessie,” The Corner Gallery. The gallery is dedicated to promoting art and advocating for a diverse community. On the exterior of the building is a series of awe-inspiring, mosaic murals, of Jacksonville residents whose impact was national. They include Zora Neale and Johnnetta Cole.

                  Jacksonville has more than 100 international restaurants and 22 craft breweries. You can experience diversity through dining. Here are a few I personally recommend.

                   Estrella Cocina offers Baja Mexican Cuisine with a curated menu of food and drink. The restaurant, bar, and lounge feature a vibrant dining and nightlife experience. This *LGBTQ+ owned business’ Chef Dwayne Beliakoff ensures great rooftop views and a party every night. @EstrellaCocina

                  Indochine, Folio Magazine’s “Best Thai Restaurant” six consecutive years, Times Union Bold City Best Thai two consecutive years, and Top 50 for Jacksonville restaurants, is a definite must. Their Thai & Southeast Asian dishes offer huge portions with wonderful ambiance for great dining.  The is the name to know for Thai & Southeast Asian Fare in Jacksonville @indochinejax 

Silkie’s Chicken and Champagne Bar is unique dining experience created by Chef Kenny & Anna Gilbert. The signature dish is Chef Kenny's fried chicken, biscuits and champagne cocktails. Attempt duplication with Chef Kenny’s Southern Cooking, Global Flavors, cookbook. @silkiesjax

Breezy’s Jazz House is an upscale restaurant featuring fine dining, and smooth music. breezyjazzhouse.com

Jenkins Quality BBQ was designated best BBQ restaurant in Florida by Southern Living Magazine. The family-owned business was founded in 1957. BBQ is cooked daily with a mustard-based sauce. There are three locations in the city. @jenkinsBBQ

The Avenue Grill serves traditional southern cuisine in a casual setting. You can order anything here and be delighted. Located on the side of the building is the 

"Locals and Legends" mural commemorating such individuals as Bob Hayes and A. Phillip Randolph.

                  For those seeking centrally located accommodations the Marriott Jacksonville Downtown Hotel is an excellent choice. Rooms are furnished with a Keurig® coffee machine, free WiFi, designer amenities and provide astonishing views. marriott.com/Jacksonville.com

                  Rediscover true American culture with sites found only in Jacksonville.

#onlyinjax

 

 

Cultural Milwaukee, Wisconsin

"That on the first day of January, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, all persons held as slaves within any State or designated part of a State, the people whereof shall then be in rebellion against the United States, shall be then, thenceforward, and forever free”

President: ABRAHAM LINCOLN

            For thousands of years, at the juncture of the Kinnickinnic, Menomonee and Milwaukee Rivers, Native American tribes lived on the land that is now the city of Milwaukee. The earliest European documentation of the area dates from 1674 when French Jesuit Father Marquette traversed the Great Lakes region following routes he learned of from the inhabitants. Shortly thereafter fur traders entered the area and Milwaukee considers the construction of Jacque Vieau’s trading post in 1795 and its subsequent ownership by his son-in-law, Solomon Juneau, as the founding of the city. In 1822 Juneau built a log cabin and in 1833 he and a partner sold land to newcomers and started a settlement.

            In the 19^th-century the city was always involved with abolitionism even though the number of African Americans was small. Generally, the residents were anti-slavery but it must be noted that this did not mean they supported racial inclusion. As independent landowners they were particularly displeased with the Fugitive Slave Act that demanded that all fugitives be returned to their owner with the aid of noninvolved citizens in the vicinity. The people of Wisconsin routinely ignored the law until events called for action. Ultimately one case resulted in the Wisconsin Supreme Court declaring the Fugitive Slave Act unconstitutional and instigated national debate and brought national attention to the state.

            Joshua Glover was born enslaved in St. Louis, Missouri in 1811, escaped slavery and settled in Racine, Wisconsin in 1852. After being betrayed by a friend his former owner recaptured him. He was taken to county jail in Milwaukee by federal marshals. As soon as the abolitionists learned of his imprisonment and intent to return him to slavery, the city mobilized. Word went out and a crowd formed at the jail to give impassioned speeches and generally protest. When this failed a group of more than 6,000 people stormed the jail and escorted Glover to a waiting wagon. He then “rode” on the Underground Railroad. Glover made nine stops on the UGRR, a testament to how large the network was in the area, before boarding a ship to Canada. He died in 1888 in Toronto. A marker can be seen at Cathedral Square Park indicating where the original courthouse and jail once stood on Courthouse Square. His story is noted in a mural at Fond Du Lac Avenue and the I-43 underpass. 

            Lincoln’s preliminary Emancipation Proclamation was announced on September 22, 1862. It declared that all enslaved individuals (more than 3-million) residing in rebellious states were to be deemed free as of January 1, 1863. The enslaved’s freedom was predicated on the region in which they resided being under Union control and whether the people were informed. In several cases years would pass. It was not until June 19, 1865 that word would reach Galveston, Texas along with Union forces under the command of General Gordon Granger. The proclamation was read to the population and this is commemorated as the date upon which the final Confederate enslaved were freed. A jubilee took place immediately following the announcement with singing, dancing and praises.

In Texas on June 19, 1866 the original Juneteenth celebrations were held. Other states began to recognize the day and celebrations became a cultural tradition. In 1980 Juneteenth became a Texas state holiday and in 2021 it became a federal holiday.

Milwaukee hosts one of the oldest, and largest, Juneteenth celebrations in the United States. Since 1971 it has always been held on the 19^th of June no matter which day of the week the 19^thfalls on. North King Drive is a hub of activity including vendors, eateries, music, entertainment, floats, bands and a parade. The event brings together more than 100,000 people and blends cultural pride with social consciousness and educational opportunities. This year’s Juneteenth celebration is the 52^nd.

One of the premiere Juneteenth participating organizations is the Brew City Cowboys (BCC). Their roots stretch back to the Civil War era when Black cowboys made up 25% of the Wisconsin cattle industry and were some of the states’ first cowboys.  The industry was at its peak from 1867-1880 and formerly enslaved men migrated to these jobs. The BCC grew out of the Silverado Trail Riders in 2019 with the stated goal, “We ride for the kids.” The members engage in community activity and offer riding lessons, horse-care sessions, and they ride in the Juneteenth parade. 

This year’s theme is “I Am Juneteenth.” Plan to travel to Milwaukee for the time of your life.

 

 

 

 

 

Northern Alabama, the Soundtrack of Our Lives

“Artists are the gatekeepers of truth.”  Harry Belafonte

            Legend has it that North Alabama’s Muscle Shoals region was named after the Tennessee River shoals that required muscle to navigate. Florence, Muscle Shoals, Sheffield and Tuscumbia made up an area where the river was particularly difficult to navigate. The Yuchi Indians, whose home was along the river, were aware of the unique sound of the water passing over the shoals and referred to it as  “The Singing River” long before European contact. The indigenous people believed a woman sang from the river and her song protected them and their culture.

                  There is something mystical that permeates the region and it would become a music mecca, Hit Recording Capitol of the World and custodian of the cultures of all the groups that interacted there. Today visitors can experience the sites, attractions and history by traveling portions of the 200-mile Singing River Trail. https://singingrivertrail.com

                  The Alabama Music Hall of Fame was established in 1990 to pay homage to Alabama entertainers as well as introduce visitors to the genius and variety of Alabama’s musicians. The hall is a 12,500-ft. complex consisting of a number of galleries, a studio, museum store, bronze stars and portraits of the Hall of Fame inductees. The exhibition galleries feature artist’s clothing, vintage recordings, photographs and memorabilia.   

               A hall highlight is a walk-thru of Alabama’s tour bus. The size of the bus made it necessary to build the museum around it.  There is also a unique set of sculptural works including that of Lionel Ritchie, the only multiple inductee. There is an original copy of Ike Turner’s 1951 Rocket 88, considered the first rock ‘n’ roll recording.  www.alamhof.org     

            “When things go wrong, a man ain't got a friend Without a song!”  Rose and Eliscu 

It was in Florence that the “Father of the Blues”, W.C. Handy, was born. The W. C. Handy House and Museum is a three-part complex consisting of a research center, a museum gallery and the 2-room log cabin built by his father and grandfather soon after Emancipation. The museum showcases Handy’s awards, sheet music, personal items and a horn that belonged to him. Several films are on view to provide an overview of his life and art. 

                  Rick Hall established Florence Alabama Music Enterprise, FAME, in 1959.  With an investment of $500.00 he began with his business over a drugstore. His first hit was Arthur Alexander’s ”You Better Move On” in 1961.  When he became successful he purchased four lots and built FAME Studio. The lots were in a wooded, swampy, area and the second group of studio musicians became known as the Swampers.

                  Many of the greatest artists of the era recorded there. They came because the area was rural, the local population did not make a fuss over them and the production values were outstanding. Among those who made their way there were Percy Sledge, Etta James, Wilson Pickett, Alicia Keys, Alabama, Otis Redding, Kenny Chesney, Billy Ray Cyrus and Aretha Franklin. FAME is recognized as the place where Aretha found her sound. It was there that she recorded “I Never Loved A Man” and “Do Right Woman”.

                  People have toured the studio to see where the magic happened. There are two available experiences, the standard tour and the Backstage Tour. Reservations are recommended. www.famestudios.com

“I’ll Take You There.”  Mavis Staples

In 1969 FAME’s Muscle Shoals Rhythm Section, known as The Swampers, Barry Beckett, Roger Hawkins, David Hood and Jimmy Johnson founded the Muscle Shoals Sound Studio. Their very famous studio was housed in a 1946 coffin showroom. They were the first session musicians to own a studio and later a publishing company. Between 1969 and 1978 they produced records for artists such as Cher, The Rolling Stones, Bob Seger, Duane Allman, Joe Cocker and Mavis Staples. The studio, 3614 Jackson Highway, was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2006.

In 2013 a documentary film, Muscle Shoals, prompted interest in restoring the studio. With a crucial $1-million grant from Beats Electronics the studio reopened for tours in 2017. The restoration is as close as possible to the original and includes isolation booths, the control room, instruments and replicated orange carpet. A highlight of the tour is a peek into a secret room used by the artists. https://muscleshoalssoundstudio.org

               Rattlesnake Saloon is one of the most unique restaurants in the country. The thrill begins when you arrive as guests and are driven from the parking lot and down a circuitous path to a sheltered area beneath a rock outcrop. The cave was once the home of Native Americans and subsequently used to house hogs by subsequent owners. The saloon accommodates both indoor and outdoor dining.

 

“They are not dead who live in the hearts they leave behind.” – Tuscarora

Tuscumbia was founded seven years before statehood on the site of a former Chickasaw village. A group of settlers escaping an Indian attack were given assistance by Indian Chief Taskaambi for whom they named the town. Tuscumbia’s historic district, 22 structures, was the first in North Alabama to be listed on the National Historic Register. https://cityoftuscumbia.org

On November 30, 1827, as the Cherokee passed through Tuscumbia on the Trail of Tears, the Tuscumbians gave them food and warm clothing. Chief Chilly McIntosh declared at the time, “As long as our nation remains upon this earth we will recollect Tuscumbia.” A tree statue of the chief stands in Tuscumbia Spring Park. Also in the park stands “Sacred Tears”, an 8-ft., 1-ton, monumental sculpture of a native woman with a baby in one arm and a hand resting on a cross, representing all those who perished on the trail.

                  Sacred Way Sanctuary, the country’s largest horse rescue facility, emphasizes research and education. Native Americans have occupied this land for at least 10,000 years and, after contact with Europeans, in 1806 this area became the first Federal Indian Reservation. Visits include a museum that interprets the history of Native American horses and their cultural importance. Tours are limited and calling ahead is advised. www.sacredwaysanctuary.org

“ All things shall pass. Only the stones will remain.”

The Wichahpi Commemorative Stone Wall, more familiarly known as Tom’s Wall, is comprised of 10-million unmortared stones. Tom Hendrix carried each stone individually over a period of more than 30-years until his death in 2017 at 83.

His great-great-grandmother, at approximately 13-years old, was forced to march from Alabama to Oklahoma on the Trail of Tears. Once in Oklahoma she realized that there was no music there. The rivers did not sing. At the end of a year Te-lah-nay set out to reclaim the mystical music. She walked alone for five years. Tom honored her journey with the longest memorial to a woman or a Native American. If laid out in a line the wall would be 2.50 miles long with a 4 level prayer circle. The wall is circuitous because, though the walk to Indian Territory was straight, the walk home was fraught with danger and was not linear. There is no admission and people from all over the world have visited the site. ifthelegendsfade.net

Muscle Shoals still has a mystical quality that expresses itself strongly through music and cultural diversity. There is no better place to seek the sound. #sweethomeAlabama

 

ROAD READS:

                  If the Legends Fade is Tom Hendrix’s narrative about building the wall. Books are available online and at the site.

 

 

Uniquely Northern Alabama -One

“We do not inherit the Earth from our Ancestors, we borrow it from our Children.”  

Ancient Indian Proverb

                  By the time Alabama achieved statehood in 1819 the region had thousands of years of history. Archeological evidence proves there had been Native American habitation for greater than 10,000 years. Explorers documented encounters with the Cherokee, Choctaw, Chickasaw, Creek and Alibamos, the state’s namesake. Alonso Alvarez de Pineda’s expedition entered Mobile Bay in 1519 but it was de Soto, in 1540, who was first to traverse the region. When the French established Fort Louis in 1702 the struggle for power among the European powers began in earnest and sixty-one years later the struggle ended with the signing of the Treaty of Paris and the ceding of the territory to England. #sweethomealabama

                  The Florence Indian Mound Museum preserves and presents a landscape of the Woodland Era as well as invites visitors to explore the community’s culture and lifestyle. The museum ‘s galleries interpret this pre-contact settlement through use of gallery exhibits, films, activities and tours of the on-site mound.

                  This earthen mound, the largest of its kind in the Tennessee River Valley is 43-ft. in height with a base that is 310 by 230 feet and was once enclosed by a wall. Archeologists have been excavating the area since 1914 but have been unable to officially determine how the mound was used. One hundred years after the initial excavation the Florence Indian Mound was placed on the National Register of Historic Places (NRHP). www.florencealmuseums.com

                  Records indicate that the French introduced slavery into the area in 1737 with the zealous complicity of the British beginning in 1763. After the American Revolution the region was flooded with Loyalists who brought their slaves with them and by 1861 nearly 50% of the population was comprised of the enslaved.

                  One of the oldest homes in Alabama is located near Tuscumbia. The brick mansion was constructed 1828-32 For Dr. Alexander Mitchell. He planted clover, corn and cotton and enslaved approximately 152 people housed in 13 cabins. The neoclassical Palladian-style plantation house with Jeffersonian architectural elements was listed on the NRHP in 1982 based on its significance both architecturally and historically. 

The mansion and 33-acres were sold to the Winston family who retained ownership until the 1940s. The Winston’s came to Alabama with 50 slaves and by 1863 they owned 300. Tours of the house are offered and a number of the items displayed are original. A visit highlight is the recreated slave quarters in the rear yard. https://ahc.alabama.gov/properties/bellemont

                  In 1896 Oakwood College, so named because of the 65 oak trees on the land, was established as the sole African American Seventh-Day Adventist College in the country. The land upon which the college was built was formerly the Peter Blow plantation where Sam Blow, better known as Dred Scott, was enslaved for 12-years. There is a plaque on campus.

Huntsville’s Weeden House Museum and Garden is a totally unique homage to history, culture and art.  The two-story Federal-style house dates from 1819 and was purchased by the Weeden’s in 1845. It was family owned until 1956. 

                  Maria Howard Weeden was born in the house in 1846. During the Civil War Union officers occupied the house. After the war Maria, under her middle name, supported the family selling her artwork. Maria received national attention as an artist and poet. She painted former slaves and accompanied her extremely detailed portraits with poems in the dialect of the enslaved. The individuals posed in their own attire and her portraits were later used as models for the clothing of the enslaved in Gone With the Wind. Her work is outstanding and becomes even more so when one learns that she was legally blind, placed her canvasses mere inches from her nose and used brushes with only three bristles. Highlights of a guided tour include her desk, numerous artworks and the room in which she was born and died. www.weedenhousemuseum.com

                  The Buffalo Soldiers of the 9^th and 10^th Cavalry bivouacked for three months from October1898 atop Huntsville’s Cavalry Hill to recuperate from malaria contracted in the Spanish-American War. They were under the command of Lt. Black Jack Pershing. On Cavalry Hill stands the 10th Cavalry Buffalo Soldier's Memorial. Atop a 10-ft. tall granite pedestal Sgt. George Berry is featured astride his horse, ascending San Juan Hill in Cuba, carrying the regimental flag.

Helen Keller was born in 1880 in a home known as Ivy Green, in Tuscumbia, Alabama. Her grandfather built the clapboard house in the 1820s. At the age of 9 months she lost both her vision and hearing. As she grew older her behavior became increasingly uncontrollable and the choice was made to hire a teacher. Anne Sullivan arrived in 1887 taught her to communicate and remained with her as a companion until Anne’s death in 1936. Helen went on to write 11 books, scholarly articles and graduated cum laude from Radcliffe at 20 years of age.

Highlights of the house and grounds’ tour are the water pump where Helen had her first educational breakthrough when she made the connection between the water pouring over her fingers and the letters “w-a-t-e-r” spelled into her hand and the bedroom Helen and Annie shared.  Immediately east of her home is a small cottage where she and Anne lived and Helen was born. More than 85% of the furnishings in the seven-room house are original. A theatrical production of The Miracle Worker is presented each June and July. www.helenkellerbirthplace.org

                  The 118-acre Huntsville Botanical Garden has developed acres of flora, fauna and thematic activity areas including gem mining, an aquatic garden, a spectacular wildflower and nature trail and the largest seasonal butterfly garden in the nation. Galaxy of Lights is the premiere holiday tradition that takes place annually in November and December. The lights may be experienced on foot or by vehicle. The colorful, immersive tradition is not to be missed. www.hsvbg.org

                  The U.S. Space & Rocket Center is a must for any visitor to the region. This is home to NASA's Official Visitor Information Center for Marshall Space Flight Center as well as, Space Camp, Space Camp Robotics and Aviation Challenge. As Huntsville’s signature attraction, Rocket City is intriguing for both children and adults. Displays throughout the museum are immersive and informative and include an impressive number of objects exploring U.S. manned space flight hardware. www.spacecamp.com/museum 

                  North Alabama can be viewed as an experiential tourist mecca based on the sheer number of cultural influences and historic events that shaped it. I invite you to explore all these places that are uniquely Alabama. www.alabama.travel

 

 

ROAD READS:

Black Folktales of the Muscle Shoals, by Rickey Butch Walker and Huston Cobb Jr., relates the history of the people of northwest Alabama through use of archival photos, interviews and documents. This holistic approach to the area’s history is well researched and inclusive of all ethnicities and perspectives. BWPublications.com

                  Tananarive Due is an American Book Award-Winning author whose new release, The Wishing Pool and Other Stories, is a compilation of fourteen short Black horror and Afrofuturism stories. These tales are filled with the perfect amount of suspenseful science fiction and are the ideal length for a road trip. #akaschicbooks