Frederick Douglass in Baltimore

"It is not that I love Maryland less, but freedom more." F. Douglass

Maryland’s African American history officially dates from 1634. The colonies’ initial black population probably came from Virginia but was quickly supplemented by sales directly from Africa, the first “documented” Africans arriving in 1642. More than most states Maryland’s stance on slavery was shaped by political events. In 1639 all slaves’ were stripped of legal rights and in 1664 the Maryland Assembly deemed the enslaved slaves for life. 

Slavery grew relatively slowly until the 1680s when, as a result of the involvement of white servants in Bacon’s Rebellion, it seemed better to expand slavery. Turner’s 1831 Virginia Rebellion led to the creation of more stringent laws regarding the rights of both free and enslaved blacks.

After the American Revolution the state’s economy began to focus on industry and technology and there was less need for agricultural slavery and slaves were rented out and competed with white workers. There were more free blacks in Baltimore than in any other Southern city and there were numerous black churches and support organizations. In 1850 more than 25,000 free blacks resided in Baltimore. Slavery was abolished in the new State Constitution on November 1, 1864 but coerced apprenticeship for blacks under 21 was allowed.

Into this world of urban slavery Douglass was sent, for the final time, after his escape attempt on April 2, 1836. His life is an example of the experiences of the enslaved and that of the country as a whole. Reconstructing his life and interpreting the lives of African Americans at the sites and through museum exhibits can be accomplished in a unique and provocative way in Baltimore. #visitbaltimore

Fells Point National Historic District’s first European documentation occurred in 1670 and it was referred to as Long Island Point. Quaker shipbuilder William Fell founded fells Prospect in 1726 and his son parceled and leased the land in 1763. The waterfront and port’s potential quickly led to the construction of warehouses, shipbuilding facilities, residences, retailers and taverns and its renaming to Fell’s Point. Ten years later it merged with Baltimore to become Baltimore Town. 

Fells Point is located within walking distance of the Baltimore Harbor on the Patapsco River and its cobblestone streets are lined with more than 300 edifices, many dating from the 1700s, in Federal and Victorian architectural style. Merchant Robert Long built what is now the oldest surviving home, in 1765. The restored home and garden are open for tours. The 1772 London Coffee House, the sole existing revolutionary-era coffee house in the country. Broadway Market was established in 1784 and continues to be the community’s core. 

Douglass was familiar with these same streets and structures in the area. At eight years old he was sent to Fells Point, Aliceanna & South Durham Streets, to work for Hugh Auld and here Mrs. Auld taught him to read. Her husband stopped her but Douglass devises ways to continue by getting white playmates to teach him. He purchased his first book, The Columbian Orator, in Nathaniel Knight’s shop at 28 Thames Street. In 1831 he joined Bethel A.M.E. Church.

 Douglass was returned to St. Michael’s as property in an inheritance. He was not sold after an attempted escape but was returned to Fells Point in 1836. He was apprenticed as a shipyard caulker and was severely beaten by whites because they resented the competition. One out of six shipyard workers at the time was African American.

Frederick Douglass Isaac Myers Maritime Park’s Douglass-Meyers Museum details his life as a child and youth in the shipyards through interactive exhibits. The museum also relates the story of America’s first black owned shipyard, the Chesapeake Marine Railway and Dry Dock Company. A bronze bust of Douglass and interpretive panels are on the exterior. 

The Reginald Lewis Museum of African American History and Culture interprets the history of     African Americans in Maryland through use of more than 11,000 documents and artifacts. Here the story of Douglass is told in its totality including objects and photographs. “Freedom Bound: Runaways of the Chesapeake” is currently on view and individual dioramas and videos convey the stories of a representative group of freedom seekers from 1728-1864. Lewismuseum.org

Frederick met Anna Murray, born free of enslaved parents, in 1838. It is widely held that both her money and her sewing skills facilitated his escape. He set the date for September 3, 1838, dressed as a “blackjack”, a free black sailor, he pocketed a borrowed sailor’s protection pass as proof of his freedom even though the description did not match. He boarded a train bound for Philadelphia and reached New York the next day. On September 15^th he wed Anna in New York City. President Street Station is now the Baltimore Civil Rights Museum. The story of Douglass’ escape and the story of Henry “Box” Brown are exhibited on site. Once free Douglass always considered September 3, 1838 as the marker for his free life and celebrated it as his birthday. 

English supporters purchased Douglass freedom for $711.66,  $25,008.33 today, from Hugh Auld  in December 1846. The orator and abolitionist returned to Sharp Street Memorial Church, where       he had been a choir member, in 1864. He spoke on equal rights and personal dignity.  In 1892 he purchased land and built five rowhomes in Strawberry Row, 516-524, to be rented to African Americans. The homes are now known as Douglass Row on South Dallas Street. There is    a plaque on his former residence at 524.

The only wax museum dedicated to African American history is located in Baltimore. The                 National Great Blacks in Wax Museum begins with an interactive slave ship exhibit and guides    you through the history chronologically and galleries are thematic. A remarkable likeness of       Frederick Douglass in his political prime is on the main floor. Duck Duck Goose, 814 S. Broadway, is absolutely awesome and when in Baltimore it is not    to be missed. Chef Ashish Alfred puts a unique and personal twist on classic French brasserie    using the freshest ingredients and meticulous preparation. With chic ambience, creative décor,     optional patio setting and exemplary service dining here is a true gourmet experience.  www.ddgbaltimore.com

Baby’s on Fire is another of Fell’s Point singular restaurants. Breakfast and lunch are served all    day in and outside. It is adjacent to the Sound Garden, the city’s largest independent record shop,        is recognized by Rolling Stone as the country’s 2nd best  record store.   Ideally situated waterside on the harbor on Baltimore’s Recreation Pier sits the extraordinary    Sagamore Pendry Baltimore. The renovated pier reflects its history and architecture and    incorporates  superior service, artfully curated public spaces and plush accommodations with deluxe linens, bath products and harbor views. Trendy amenities include spa services, pool with private cabanas and bar and 24-hour exercise room. Pendryhotels.com/baltimore

Guinness Open Gate & Barrel House in Halethorpe, MD was selected as the site of the first purpose- built Guinness American brewery. It is on the site of a 90-year old barrel rickhouse and opened in 2017. Guests are invited to tour the facility, dine, shop and attend signature events. Curbside pick-up is available. The brewery is presenting its second annual Oktoberfest on two weekends, September 25-27 and October 2-4. guinnessbrewerybaltimore.com

                 

The wonders of Baltimore are only 90-minutes from Philadelphia. #visitMaryland             

 

 

 

Maryland, Frederick Douglass in Talbot County (Part One)

“I now resolved that, however long I might remain a slave in form, the day had passed forever when I could be a slave in fact.” F. Douglass 

 September is International Underground Railroad Month and nowhere is that history better preserved and presented more accurately than throughout the state of Maryland. This month Maryland is honoring the legacy of the freedom seekers and those who assisted them with a series of exhibitions, events, tours and walking and road trips, all designed to be both comprehensive and follow socially safe guidelines. 

The UGRR system can be defined as resistance to the institution of slavery through self-emancipation and escape. Escapes were frequent from the first years of slavery and indenture and the routes, because slavery existed throughout the colonies, were as widespread as Canada, Mexico and western Indian Territory. Because escape was an issue, in 1793 the first Fugitive Slave Law was instituted. It levied a $500 fine on any person resisting or interfering in recapture. In 1850 the second Fugitive Slave Law made it compulsory for citizens to assist in recapture or be fined or arrested. Frederick Douglass’ story is quintessentially one of the conditions of the enslaved, the fugitives and the freedman in the state. It is also the story of the UGRR and the determination of the freedom seekers, the use of disguises and guile, forms of transportation and the concentrated efforts of both black and white rescuers. 

The “Following in His Footsteps: Maryland’s Frederick Douglass Self-Driving Tour” relates his journey by tracing his path from birth through the cities that sculpted him into the man he would become. Because this article takes you chronologically through his life the sites in part one are along the Eastern Shore. www.visitmaryland.org/driving-tours/following-his-footsteps-marylands-frederick-douglass-driving-tour Frederick Augustus Bailey was born near Easton at Holme Hill Farm in 1818. He lived with his grandmother and last saw his mother in 1825, the probable year of her death. 

The tour begins at The Frederick Douglass Park on the Tuckahoe River near his birth site. A short path takes you to an outdoor gallery filled with markers that interpret his life and includes trails and river views. In 1878 Douglass returned to collect soil from this area as a memento. St. Michael’s was chartered in 1804 and is home to the 18-acre waterfront Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. It features historic buildings, exhibits and events and the featured Mitchell House. The left side of the relocated home is original and belonged to Eliza Bailey Mitchell, Douglass’ sister, her free husband Peter and two children. The exhibits within the house provide an overview of area slavery and Douglass personal experiences. cbmm.org 

Douglass was sent to St. Michael’s in 1833 to live with Thomas Auld in his store on the corner of Cherry and Talbot Streets. He established a secret Sabbath Day school for enslaved children and upon discovery was rented out as a field hand to the infamous slave breaker Edward Covey. Covey’s cruelty caused Douglass to fight back in August 1834, ultimately win, and never be beaten by him again. The site of the Covey Farm is on the road to Tilghman Island across from New St. john’s Church. 

The Dr. Dodson House Bed & Breakfast was the home of Auld’s daughter. Douglass visited the home as a guest in 1878. 200 Cherry St. 

 St. Michael’s Museum offers a monthly Frederick Douglass Walking Tour and features an exhibit, Frederick Douglass: His World 1818-1895. Call for information. 

The Civil War left many black Union soldiers rootless after separation from the service. In 1866 Quakers Ezekiel and John Cowgill gave 18 ex-soldiers plots of land for $1.00 annually. The men and their families settled in Cowgilltown, later renamed Unionville, and many descendants remain there. Their original church, St. Stephens A.M.E., is still active and the eighteen founders and members of Douglass’ family are interred in the churchyard. 

 In 1835 he became the field hand of William Freeland and on April 2, 1836 Douglass and several other slaves were jailed after another slave exposed a planned escape plot. They were walked 20-miles to be jailed in Easton. The jail is around the corner from the still active Talbot County Courthouse. The Frederick Douglass Statue on the courthouse lawn depicts him in 1878 as he delivered a speech in the main courtroom. Easton dates from 1659 and is at the heart of Talbot County. 

A free black community, The Hill, was established circa 1788 and an 11-stop tour relates their experiences throughout the centuries. In 1878 Douglass addressed gatherings at both 1818 Bethel A.M.E. and 1836 Asbury United Methodist Churches. Bethel continues to use the rostrum from which Douglass spoke. 

 The Tidewater Inn, 101 East Dover Street, was the site of the Hotel Avon when Douglass made his final visit to Talbot County in 1893. He stayed there during his visit. In 1944 the Avon burned down and three years later the Tidewater Inn was constructed. The Tidewater Inn offers luxury accommodations, Hunter’s Tavern, Terrasse Spa, free parking and WIFI. The staff is committed to the highest personal protective standards so that each guest can have peace of mind and enjoy their visit. Auld sent Douglass to Fell’s Point in Baltimore for the final time prior to his escape to freedom in 1836. Through both triumph and tragedy Douglass never lost his affection for the Eastern Shore. 

You can trace his journey and better understand the man, his motivations and the sheer beauty of the Chesapeake Bay, North America’s largest estuary. #visitMaryland 

 The sites listed are all within twenty-miles of each other, two hours from Philadelphia and the entire trip can be accomplished on a single tank of gas.