Civil War and Reconstruction: The Battle for Freedom and Equality

The National Constitution Center opened the Civil War and Reconstruction: The Battle for Freedom and Equality  exhibit on May 9^thwith an introduction to the era and discussion of current political and social ramifications. This groundbreaking exhibition is the first in the country to delve into the ways in which constitutional controversies regarding slavery split the country and paved an inexorable path to the Civil War.  It to details the nation’s transformation in general as well as the resulting constitutional questions, changes and efforts to become the inclusive country promised in the Declaration of Independence withliberty and justice for all. The exhibition is permanent. @constitutioncenter.org

                                           

Reconstruction is one of the least taught and fully understood periods in US history. The dates are even subject to disagreement but the generally accepted dates are 1865, the end of the Civil War, until 1877, when federal troops were withdrawn from the South.  This twelve year period would define the trajectory of black life in America and have significant current ramifications. In order to better understand the exhibit and the era I have created a primer but I leave it to you to visit the center and learn more about it.

                  

Jefferson included an anti-slavery clause in the Declaration of Independence in June 1776. It was removed. Jefferson lived in Philadelphia in the Graff House, 700 Market Street, while he wrote. There is a short video and the house features period furnishings including a replicated lap desk and swivel chair. Self-guided tours are offered during limited hours.

         

        

Nowhere in the Constitution is the word "slave" mentioned but certain protections of the institution were included. The notable three-fifths clause (Article I, Section 2), recognizing 3/5 of a state’s slaves granting additional representatives in the House and Electoral College. Congress was not permitted to make the Atlantic slave trade illegal for 20-years (Article I, Section 9, Clause 1) and a clause made it mandatory for fugitive slaves to be returned to their owners (Article IV, Section 2).

                  

At the end of the war efforts began to readmit the seceding states to the Union, assist former slaves in a new life and rebuild a viable southern economy. In 1865 the 13^thAmendment abolished slavery and the Freedman’s Bureau was formed to support the formerly enslaved. President Johnson was an avid racist and rendered little federal assistance to blacks. The southern governments, supported by many  citizens, went to great lengths, using terror, lynching and  other forms of pressure to maintain social, economic and political control. 

The Civil Rights Act of 1866 granted additional protections and the 14^thAmendment  granted citizenship and equal protection to blacks.  As a result of Johnson’s attempts to halt the progress of the 1867 Reconstruction Act, allowing black men to vote, he was impeached. The 15^thAmendment was ratified in 1870 and granted all male citizens the right to vote. Voting rights were so critical that southerners began an organized campaign to thwart these rights in particular.  

More than 100 artifacts are displayed in a 3,000-ft. series of chronological galleries beginning with Building to Crisis, the period from 1787-1860. The Civil War  area covers 1860-65 and showcases a large collection of items from the nationally eminent Civil War Museum of Philadelphia. civilwarmuseumphila.org

Reconstruction interprets post-war circumstances and activities, the passage of the 13^th, 14^thand 15^thAmendments and the erosion of gains in the 1870s. The final section traces the continuing struggle for equality with a focus on legislation.

Each artifact was chosen to amplify the story. Items not to be missed include 1830s shackles, an 1800s mandolin handcrafted by a slave, Dred Scott’s 1846 freedom petition, Frederick Douglass’ inkwell, a portrait of Lincoln by David Bustill Bowser, rare original documents and an 1866 Klan robe and hood. It should be noted that Bowser was a black, self-taught, painter who resided at 841 N. 4^thStreet. 

Civil War and Reconstruction: The Battle for Freedom and Equalityis designed to be interactive. There are several stations that allow visitors to explore more deeply areas of personal interest. Guided tours by reservation, gallery talks, a theatrical production and a solo performance of Frances Ellen Watkins Harper: The Great Problem to be Solved are all available. Frances Harper was a free black who moved to Philadelphia from Baltimore. She became an activist and poet. She lived at 1006 Bainbridge Street.

This is a significant exhibition created to provoke thought and discussion as it has done for more than 200-years. Even the framers of the Constitution did not always agree on the interpretation on certain issues. In 1787 Benjamin Franklin stated, “I confess that there are several parts of this Constitution which I do not at present approve, but I am not sure I shall never approve them. For having lived long, I have experienced many instances of being obliged by better information, or fuller consideration, to change opinions even on important subjects, which I once thought right, but found to be otherwise.” Join the conversation.

TRAVEL TIP:

Colonists primarily drank tea prior to the American Revolution but the Boston Tea Party, ironically strategized in the Green Dragon Coffee House, jettisoned coffee onto the list of patriotic musts. Now travelers are among the 40-million daily consumers demanding coffee to start their day. A new artisan coffee product, Steeped Coffee, has just made your daily consumption portable and accessible. The product is 100% ethically sourced, is gluten and GMO free, made in the US and uses eco-friendly and renewable packaging. Best of all barista-approved Steeped Coffee comes in a steeped bag that only requires 8oz. of hot water to produce the perfect cup. The bags are individually wrapped, steep to taste and imbibe like royalty. steepedcoffee.com

A Quick Guide to Philadelphia Icons
Renée S. Gordon
           Philadelphia receives millions of visitors annually and is one of the ten most visited cities in the US. People from around the world come for the historic sites and stay for the dazzling array of  restaurants, accommodations and activities. Philadelphia’s location in the heart of the Middle Atlantic States makes it an excellent hub for day trips to Valley Forge (20 miles), Lancaster (80 miles), Longwood Gardens (36 miles), the Dupont Mansions of Delaware (30 miles), Baltimore (100 miles), New York City (95 miles) and Washington, DC (140 miles) making it an option filled and cost effective vacation choice.  www.discoverphl.com
                Residents of the city often find themselves called upon to host out of towners wishing to experience the “most historic mile in the country” and run up the Philadelphia Art Museum steps. Anyone who lives here knows parking can be a hassle and getting around can be a challenge. There is a quick, easy and inexpensive alternative to driving or using traditional public transportation, Philly PHLASH® Downtown Loop.
The PHLASH® has a total of eighteen stops, all situated at or near the most important attractions, as well as the Zoo and Please Touch Museum Loop that makes stops at these two attractions in Fairmount Park. The bus operates daily service, 15 minutes apart, from 10 am to 6 pm, May 1st to September 2nd.  Rides are $2.00 each, $5.00 for a one day pass and $7.00 for a 2-day pass. Seniors, SEPTA Pass holders and children 4 and under are free. Tickets can be purchased online and at the Independence Visitor Center at 6th & Market St. Tours are not narrated but free maps and guides are available. Bus stops are clearly marked and the PHLASH® can be boards at any stop as it provides hop-on hop-off service. ridephillyphlash.com
Stop One provides access to Penn’s Landing and the Delaware Waterfront. The waterfront is alive with free activities day and night including the Blue Cross RiverRink, Summerfest, Cherry Street Pier and the PECO Multicultural Series. The series runs from June 2- September 15 and showcases the richness of Philadelphia’s diversity. #MyPhillyWaterfront
Independence Visitor Center is the third stop but I suggest starting here and visiting Independence National Historical Park (INHP) that encompasses, among others, Independence Hall, the President’s House, the Liberty Bell Center. Consider walking the 4 blocks to Mother Bethel AME Church and Washington Square. Independence Hall tours are free but you must obtain a timed ticket at the Visitors Center in summer. The President’s House was the rental home of the Washington household while he was president and it interprets their life there as well as that of the enslaved who lived there. The house was torn down and the current structure outlines the rooms that once existed. www.nps.gov/inde/index
 

               The National Constitution Center is showcasing the first permanent American exhibition, Civil War and Reconstruction: The Battle for Freedom and Equality, dedicated to presenting how constitutional challenges regarding slavery led directly to the Civil War and how post-war alterations to the document were designed to fulfill the hopes and promises of the Declaration of Independence. A 3,000 sq. ft. gallery relates the story through artifacts, live performances, and personal testimonies. This exhibit is outstanding. @constitutioncenter.org
    The Romanesque Revival Mother Bethel AME Church, 6th & Pine, established in 1782, is located on the oldest piece of land continuously owned by African-Americans in the country. There is a museum within the church. Washington Square Park, 6th & Walnut St., was laid out in 1682 as South east Park. It was referred to as Congo Square because newly arrived Africans were imprisoned there prior to sale. The park also served as a gathering place for slaves, cemetery for Revolutionary War soldiers and victims of the 1793 yellow fever epidemic.
Reading Terminal, at Stop Four, is the oldest continuously operating farmer’s market in the US. It dates from 1893 and is a great place for lunch or a tour break. www.readingterminalmarket.org
Stops Six to Twelve take visitors along Benjamin Franklin Parkway and are accessible to the Barnes Foundation, Rodin Museum, Philadelphia Museum of Art and Franklin Science Museum. Marvel: Universe of Super Heroes is currently on view at the Franklin Museum Institute. The exhibition showcases more than 300 artifacts and commemorates Marvel’s 80th anniversary. www.fi.edu/exhibit/marvel-universe-super-heroes
The Rocky Statue is located in a small grotto in front of the art museum. This is also the transfer location for the Zoo, the oldest in the country and Please Touch Museum, PHLASH®. Please Touch will be exhibiting America to Zanzibar: Muslim Cultures Near and Far, an exploration of Muslim cultures, until September 2nd.
www.pleasetouchmuseum.org
         Eastern State Penitentiary is one of the most haunted sites in the country and at Stop Nine you can hop-off and take a tour. Highlights of a visit here are the daytime Voices of Eastern State Audio Tour, exhibits and Al Capone’s cell. www.easternstate.org
          The Museum of the American Revolution is the final stop. It is one of city’s newer museums and traces the story of the revolution from the initial Boston controversies through the Revolution and into the creation of the republic. Gallery highlights include an impressive collection of British, American and French arms, documents, uniforms and Washington’s original battle tent. www.amrevmuseum.org
           CityPass is a way to save as much as 44% on entrances and it is valid for 9 consecutive days. Tickets are available online in mobile or printed form. www.citypass.com

Oxford, MS Octet

Oxford, Mississippi, located in northern MS and the heart of the South, has a long and storied history that begins with the three great tribes, the Choctaw, Chickasaw and Natchez, that inhabited the region prior to European arrival in 1541. The land was meagerly populated until the end of the French and Indian War in 1763 and in 1798 Congress delineated the Mississippi Territory. The Chickasaw Indian Cession Treaty relocated the tribes in 1836 adding 6,283,804-acres to the territory, including what is now Oxford. visitoxfordms.com

Three inhabitants of the area donated 50-acres and named the new town Oxford after the university and town in 1836. The legislature agreed to build the University of Mississippi, ‘Ole Miss’, there and it was charteredon February 24, 1844. Sixteen-years later the institution suspended classes so that the students could fight in the Civil War. www.olemiss.edu

                  Oxford is a walkable city filled with historic sites, post-war architecture, museums, entertainment venues, eclectic dining options and specialty shopping opportunities. I have outlined eight thematic clusters that make the city easier to experience. Maps and guides and information is available in hotels and the Visitor Center.

1.    Oxford’s Historic Downtown Square has more than 100 locations of interest.

including commemorative markers and sculptures. Of particular note is Off Square Books, voted one of the top ten independent bookstores in America. It is home to the weekly Thacker Mountain Radio Hour, a free live broadcast of music and book readings. Two additional allied bookstores, Old Square Books and Square Books Jr., are also on the square. Music aficionados must visit The End of All Music,  one of the nation’s top independent record stores. Pause in a small plaza and sit beside William Faulkner. www.squarebooks.com 

2.    African Americans settled near downtown during Reconstruction in a section called 

Freedman Town and in 1869 they erected the first Burns Methodist Episcopal Church for $3000. The current structure dates from 1910 and functioned until 1974. After the congregation relocated, in 1993, author John Grisham purchased the building as an office. Grisham donated the building in 2002 and it recently underwent a restoration and is now a museum and community center. Museum exhibits interpret African American history from the 17^th-20^thcenturies through a two room self-guided tour and 13-minute video. The pews and Bible date from the earlier structure.

           3.  In October of 2018 a marker in memory of Elwood Higginbottom was placed at the intersection of Molly Barr Road and North Lamar Boulevard. Higginbottom, a sharecropper, was engaged in a land dispute with his white neighbor in 1935 and became the final lynching victim in the county. The marker has been placed where they believe he was buried.

            4.  L. Q. Lamar is represented in John Kennedy’s Profiles in Courage. He was a slave owner, secessionist and post-war advocate for black rights and education. Exhibit rooms are thematic and self-guided. www.lqclamarhouse.com

            5.  No matter what pleases your palate you can find it in Oxford. Dine on international or southern cuisine and finish off the meal with a specialty drink. 

                  Big Bad Breakfastwill make this your favorite meal. Along with a plethora of choices don’t miss the house-cured Tabasco brown sugar bacon www.bigbadbreakfast.com 

                  Saint Leo’s is a 2017 James Beard Award semi-finalist for Best New Restaurant. Dishes are a combination of fresh local ingredients and wood-fired Italian cooking. One block away is the Saint Leo Loungehelmed byJames Beard-nominated bar director and mixologist Joe Stinchcomb. Formerly the Oxford Eagle Newspaper, the décor is thoroughly modern with a disco ball decorated dance floor. eatsaintleo.com

Chef Vishwesh Bhat, a James Beard Award nominee for Best Chef South, reigns over The Snack Bar. The food is outstanding and the oyster bar is superb. citygroceryonline.com/snackbar

           6. A tour of the University of Mississippi is a deep dive into the nation’s history. In 1961 James Meredith applied for admission into the university. After two rejections he was admitted in 1962 and was accompanied by 500 U.S. marshals and a cease and desist obstruction order. When the police were removed on September 29th a riot broke out, two people were killed and many wounded. President Kennedy ordered 11,000 MS National Guard and 20,000 federal troops to restore order. Meredith graduated in 1963. In 2003 a sculpture was placed on the Lyceum Circle entrance. Meredith is depicted walking towards the Lyceum where a bullet hole is still visible. The university offers a self-guided Meredith walking tour that can be downloaded from the web.

                  A Professional Journalism Marker on campus honors French journalist Paul Guihard who was murdered near the student union on September 30, 1962. 

                  The university is also home to the Center for the Study of Southern Culture and Living Bluesmagazine. The center documents and preserves African American blues, gospel and folk traditions. In 1984 the renowned Blues Archive opened and showcases  B. B. King’s personal record collection, rare documents, books, and artifacts. This is a unique treat. Entrance is free. 

            7.  Oxford is known as the Literary Capital of the South largely because it was home to Nobel and Pulitzer Prize winner William Faulkner. He lived in his Greek Revival Rowan Oak home from 1930 until his death. All of the rooms are open to view and there are displays of personal items, photographs and listening booths. 
Everything is original and his funeral service was held in the parlor. Visitors can walk the 29-acre Bailey’s Woods. 

                  Faulkner is buried in Oxford Memorial Cemetery and it is traditional to leave whiskey or take a drink with him while you are there. His nursemaid, Mama Callie, was originally buried at his request in the family plot. After his death she was moved to the “colored” section. rowanoak.olemiss.edu

          8.  Two mandatory music venues near Oxford are Taylor Grocery and Foxfire Ranch. Taylor Grocery is famous for its catfish and live music. People do not visit the area without stopping by. www.taylorgrocery.com 

                  The 80-acre Foxfire Ranch  gives the experience of a family friendly traditional juke joint. In summer the shows are outdoors. Iretta and Johnny B. Blues Band performed there on their way to Europe. Soul food was on the menu and the music was in your soul. Call for showtimes. 

                  Graduate Hotel Oxford is within walking distance of everything. It is cleverly decorated to reflect both the campus and literary atmosphere. Café 82 is open for casual fare and The Coop, a roof-top bar, is open for dining and nighttime viewing. graduateoxford.com

                  Take a tour with Oxford Historian Rhondalyn Pairs, grab a bike at the Graduate, take a Double Decker Bus Touror stroll along the historic streets. An Oxford vacation always fits your budget and your state of mind.